Bedding Sendaro H-S stocks

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by 7mmSendaro, Feb 9, 2007.

  1. 7mmSendaro

    7mmSendaro Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have any experience "skim bedding" and H-S stock? I have heard several references to it and talked to a tech at H-S. While he had to say that it would void the stock waranty, he went on the say that it can help dramatically with long range accuracy. I have bedded several wood stock rifles, but never an H-S stock. Any experience?
     
  2. James Jones

    James Jones Well-Known Member

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    Its the same basic principle as the wood stock but the bedding will be thinner , I like to use a 3/8" drill and make several shallow holes in the bedding area so that the bedding material will have something to "hang" onto. I also use a 60grit sanding drum on a dremel tool to rough up the bedding area.
    Get it bedding good and solid , and if you have access to a mill or a good drill press with a vise drill the action screw holes out a bit bigger so their is no chance that the action screws will be able to touch anything when they are tightened down.

    You basicaly just making a good fit better.
     

  3. CatShooter

    CatShooter Well-Known Member

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    I use Brownell's "Steel bed" and have done dozens of these stocks for customers and myself) and they do shoot better, and are more stable (no wandering zero's).

    .
     
  4. zingdingo

    zingdingo Well-Known Member

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    If you can do wood, you can do H-S. I'll second the Steel bed recommendation (officially Devcon 10110 Plastic Steel Putty). I don't drill holes in mine, as I feel the stock surface will adhere to the epoxy well (and haven't had any trouble doing it as such), but I can't imagine it would hurt (provided you didn't get to crazy with the drill).

    I assume your planning on floating the barrel?
     
  5. Wild_Bill

    Wild_Bill Well-Known Member

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    Hi i do it very similar to the above. Devcon Steel Putty and drill 1/8" holes in diferent angles into the stock about 3/8" deep then dremal the front portion where the recoil lug touches back at least 1/16" to allow enough bedding compound to get behind the lug for a perfect fit and to be thick enough that it can not crack off. The main thing is to have at least 1/16" thickness everywhere on the block. I sometimes skim the bedding block down a little to allow room for thicker bedding compound and i also drill the take down screws out for more clearence. Take the trigger off and it is easier then use the dremel to clean up the inleting linishing the overflow of bedding compound into the magazine and trigger cut out flush with the alloy block.

    Make sure you have a layer of thick tape down the sides of the recoil lug and 3 under it to allow the recoil lug to sit down and not bounce when it is bottomed out it realy helps. I also tape around the barrel infromt of the recoil lug and when the rifle is removed from the bedding the barrel has clearence and their is no beddine to be removed from the Knox touching the barrel as i dont like to bed the barrel unless it is overweight for the action hulding it where a 4" pad half way down the barrel channel can work wonders but it has to be a very stable stock or you will end up with issues and it must all be laid at the same time to guarentee a stress free bessing job without any tension on the action when it is sitting in the stock.

    Cheers Bill
    Australia
     
  6. Ronin

    Ronin Well-Known Member

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    Pretty much as per everyone elses recemondations, just make sure you remove all trigger mech and fill any void with materiel that prevents ingress of Devcon.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Finished HS Stock - shoots in the .3's and is better for being bedded /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
    [​IMG]
     
  7. 7mmSendaro

    7mmSendaro Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys, I followed the suggestions this weekend except I used Marine Tex. It seems to have worked perfectly. Now I just hope to have some decent weather to get out and shoot! The gun was shooting around .75 MOA before so I have a good bench mark for improvement.

    Must say I am very impressed with this site so far. Alot more helpful information than any otehr site I've seen so far.
     
  8. Centre Punch

    Centre Punch Well-Known Member

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    Hi Andy,
    Whats with what looks like an "O" ring on your barrel breech, are you using it as some kind of spacer?

    Ian.
     
  9. Ronin

    Ronin Well-Known Member

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    Ian

    it is indeed an O ring, I use it in this case to "seal" the barrel pad end when the action/barrel was sitting in the Devcon and stock. The O ring conincides with the end of the barrel pad forwards of the recoil lug.

    I also use O rings at various points along the barrel so that the action remains central in the forend channel.