Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding question
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="NesikaChad" data-source="post: 221247" data-attributes="member: 7449"><p>Tape and holding an action in the stock while the resin cures:</p><p></p><p>I tape the barrel up front to center it in the channel. I use a little bit of tape on the receiver ring of the barrel to act as a **** to keep resin from flowing up the barrel channel. I also use a bit of clay to **** the stock there as well.</p><p></p><p>The pillars are bolted to the action via studs. I don't use screws. I use a 1/4-28 stud that I make myself that has just enough thread on the action side to get full purchase in the receiver, then it steps up to 5/16 diameter so its almost a slip fit inside the pillar. then it necks back down to 1/4 20 and I use a cheap o hardware store flange nut to tighten everything. I tighten the studs to the action hand tight and I use just a bit of pressure to tighten the nuts. Just enough to keep stuff from moving or working loose.</p><p></p><p>The particulars regarding clean up and holding the action in the stock while the resin cures is covered in those long winded rants of mine posted here. I'll let ya go looking so this thread doesn't turn into a chapter from the Bible.</p><p></p><p>Tape: The green 3M **** is awesome. Auto body supply shops sell it. Get some! Get a few rolls in different widths.</p><p></p><p>I mask the entire stock when I bed a gun. Everything, from one end to the other.</p><p></p><p>Nothing, and I mean nothing SUCKS more than having a rifle all done, your ready to apply finish and all the sudden the wood looks like its got a metallic paint job cause some aluminum or steel based bedding material got sucked into the wood fibers and you missed it and now its covered with finish.</p><p></p><p>Experience is never cheap. . .I've lived this nightmare and I learned from it. It's well worth the extra ten minutes and 2 dollars in tape to avoid the headaches. I do it synthetics as well just cause its one less thing to have to sand off the stock. Digging that crap out of the checkering on a grip is no fun either.</p><p></p><p>On my pillar holes I make "pull tabs" out of tape. I tape off the bottom of the hole so epoxy doesn't go oozing out the bottom. when I squish the action into the stock, the tabs get peeled off and I'm done. The pillars I make start off longer than needed. I flip my stocks over and finish mill them when I install the trigger guard or floor metal.</p><p></p><p>This is an entire process and it doesn't lend itself well when you start using stocks that have already been inletted for trigger guards and floor metals.</p><p></p><p>I suggest you get some firm/squishy type foam from a hobby store. Make damns and stuff them down your mag wells and trigger inlets. This will help mitigate the resin from taking off on you. Don't be afraid to use clay either although clay will displace if enough pressure is put on it. The foam tends to stay put better.</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NesikaChad, post: 221247, member: 7449"] Tape and holding an action in the stock while the resin cures: I tape the barrel up front to center it in the channel. I use a little bit of tape on the receiver ring of the barrel to act as a **** to keep resin from flowing up the barrel channel. I also use a bit of clay to **** the stock there as well. The pillars are bolted to the action via studs. I don't use screws. I use a 1/4-28 stud that I make myself that has just enough thread on the action side to get full purchase in the receiver, then it steps up to 5/16 diameter so its almost a slip fit inside the pillar. then it necks back down to 1/4 20 and I use a cheap o hardware store flange nut to tighten everything. I tighten the studs to the action hand tight and I use just a bit of pressure to tighten the nuts. Just enough to keep stuff from moving or working loose. The particulars regarding clean up and holding the action in the stock while the resin cures is covered in those long winded rants of mine posted here. I'll let ya go looking so this thread doesn't turn into a chapter from the Bible. Tape: The green 3M **** is awesome. Auto body supply shops sell it. Get some! Get a few rolls in different widths. I mask the entire stock when I bed a gun. Everything, from one end to the other. Nothing, and I mean nothing SUCKS more than having a rifle all done, your ready to apply finish and all the sudden the wood looks like its got a metallic paint job cause some aluminum or steel based bedding material got sucked into the wood fibers and you missed it and now its covered with finish. Experience is never cheap. . .I've lived this nightmare and I learned from it. It's well worth the extra ten minutes and 2 dollars in tape to avoid the headaches. I do it synthetics as well just cause its one less thing to have to sand off the stock. Digging that crap out of the checkering on a grip is no fun either. On my pillar holes I make "pull tabs" out of tape. I tape off the bottom of the hole so epoxy doesn't go oozing out the bottom. when I squish the action into the stock, the tabs get peeled off and I'm done. The pillars I make start off longer than needed. I flip my stocks over and finish mill them when I install the trigger guard or floor metal. This is an entire process and it doesn't lend itself well when you start using stocks that have already been inletted for trigger guards and floor metals. I suggest you get some firm/squishy type foam from a hobby store. Make damns and stuff them down your mag wells and trigger inlets. This will help mitigate the resin from taking off on you. Don't be afraid to use clay either although clay will displace if enough pressure is put on it. The foam tends to stay put better. Hope this helps. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Bedding question
Top