Bedding polypropylene stocks

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by 4LClover, Mar 24, 2011.

  1. 4LClover

    4LClover Member

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    Not sure if this is old news but I recently discovered that the use of Valspar plastic primer on the "cheap" factory polypropylene stocks will allow the bedding compound to adhere very well to the stock. All that is required is a little roughing of the bedding area with a dremel and then a light spray of the primer. Wait a couple hours and you are good to go.
    I discovered this while bedding a T3 (and nearly going insane in the process).
    After some farting around I found a way of bedding the T3 that is pretty slick.:)
    happy hunting!
     
  2. blackbrush

    blackbrush Well-Known Member

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    Being a newbie I purchased a couple to just orientate myself, practice setting up, etc. Cutting the stuff makes a mess and would make a wonderful bird nest.

    I'll try your suggestion...did you eek any accuracy out of it?
     

  3. blackbrush

    blackbrush Well-Known Member

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  4. 4LClover

    4LClover Member

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    I have yet to try shooting the bedded T3's and A7's. They already shoot real good as is.

    The stocks are actually pretty stout and well engineered compared to all of the other brands of polypro stocks I have worked on. The Finns build good rifles for sure.

    I will let you know if the accuracy improves.

    The article "stress free pillar bedding" has some good info. I changed release agent based on this guy's recommendation and started using steelbed which is close to Devcon as near as I can tell. This stuff is waaaay easier to work with than acraglas.
    Stress-Free Pillar Bedding
     
  5. slewfoot

    slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    4LCLOVER

    On bedding the T3 lite what did you do with the reverse recoil lug? You know the metal bar thats where the recoil lug would be?

    I thought about removing it and using Devcon in place of it..... Or grind the front of it back and then bed...

    My rifle is a left hand T3 Lite 300wsm.

    Slewfoot
     
  6. 4LClover

    4LClover Member

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    I removed a fair amount of material behind this lug (1/4") to be replaced with Steelbed which is harder. The lug is a bit loose in the reciever groove so the lug gets covered with Steelbed too (sand with carborundum). A couple wraps with electrical tape at both ends of the reciever and wait 12 hrs. At this point the fit is real tight so remove the small amount of steelbed on the back of the lug with a mototool and it goes together nicely. I have done two T3's now and they are not too difficult. After the epoxy cures, bed the part of the stock in front of the reciever that touches the barrel. Grind off both ears on this doohickey until it is not touching the barrel, apply epoxy and torque both action screws. Tikka recommends 65 in/lb but I use 45 in/lb. This allows stress free bedding of this area.

    I will be doing an A7 this week and will try to post some photos. Do you know how to post photos here? Me and computers are ....uhhh.....
     
  7. slewfoot

    slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    I did the photo post one time with the help of someone smarter than me. I need to upgrade to a nice laptop.

    Thanks for the tips, the lug in mine is real tight Ill grind away material in front and back and bed with Devcon 10610. Its just like 10110 but aluminum, I have had great results with it when I bed packing weight rifles. I have used Steelbed in the past and it works well but Devcon is much easier to work with but has to be painted.

    I think I will put 2 layers of tape on the back of the lug mortise on the receiver so I don't have to relieve it after.

    Slewfoot
     
  8. Clark

    Clark Well-Known Member

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    I have experimented with cutting gripping grooves with a dovetail cutter in the mill.
    I can get the epoxy to hang on.
    But by the time I am done, it weighs more and is still less accurate than a cheap wooden stock.

    I now take them off and throw them away.