Bedding lug area tight or relieved?

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by Brent, Jan 2, 2003.

  1. Brent

    Brent Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jun 12, 2001
    Can you comment on the pros and cons of bedding the recoil lug area solid vs. taping the sides and front of the lug?

    My dad bedded his 300wsm solid the other day, mine is solid as well. Is this better or worse, why specifically?

    What's your favorite release agent too?
     
  2. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Brent,
    The lug area should be "snug", very little movement.

    I use Johnson Past Wax and for hard to get places I use Pam Spray oil. But the best stuff that I have used is what comes with Brownells bedding compound, the blue stuff.
     

  3. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Brent

    The measure of a perfect bedding job is to torque the guard screws to their proper numbers, then mount the body of a 1/10,000" indicator to the stock. Then carefully place the stylus on the barrel to measure the movement of the barrel in relation to the stock. Zero movement should occur when you gradually remove torque from each screw, independently of the other screw.

    To this end the bottom of the recoil lug must have clearance. You should place 2 layers of tape on the bottom of the lug wrapping around any radius until you reach the 'flat' on each side of the recoil lug.

    If you do not tape off the bottom, when the guard screws are tightened the bedding material will compress and you will stress the action about .002" against the stock, not good. Having a tight fit on the sides of the recoil lug is more important on a round action, than one flat on the bottom.
    I think it is desirable to have a tight fit on the sides for both designs with the larger calibers, the more surface area you have to control torque the longer your bedding job will last. [​IMG]