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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Basics of Reloading for Long Range Shooting
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<blockquote data-quote="green 788" data-source="post: 97025" data-attributes="member: 3781"><p>boomstick... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif</p><p></p><p>That's like walking into a bar and asking what the best tasting beer is. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif</p><p></p><p>But there are some basics which no one should argue with...</p><p></p><p>Basically, you want to reduce the ES (Extreme Spread) of your handload. That means the difference between the slowest bullet and the fastest bullet.</p><p></p><p>You'll hear folks toss out the Standard Deviation number, but that's just this side of worthless if you ask me. Extreme Spread is where it's at--if you want <em>every</em> shot to go where you aim.</p><p></p><p>Some things to get the ES down would be:</p><p></p><p>Segregate the brass to 4% maximum case weight spread. (2% heavier than the mean, 2% lighter). Then use a "runny" ball powder like W748 and get a volume check on each case. Basically, fill it to heaping with the 748 and weigh the charge. All charges should be within .1 grains on .308 sized cases, and around .2 on larger cases (my criteria).</p><p></p><p>You can weigh your bullets if you like, and segregate them into groups. Use the odd ones at closer ranges, save the perfect ones for the 600 yards and farther groups.</p><p></p><p>I've yet to see any evidence that deburring flash holes helps much if any. If you have obvious shavings of brass in the flash hole, poke a toothpick in there and move them aside. There just isn't any believable science that says that a tiny burr of brass is going to change anything significantly here--so long as it isn't obstructing the flash hole. If you move it aside with a toothpick it'll get flattened against the case head on the first firing.</p><p></p><p>Some guys turn necks. My choice would be to purchase good brass instead (if available).</p><p></p><p>Don't goober with your primer pockets. Those primer pocket uniformers do more harm than good in my experience. </p><p></p><p>Some guys weigh primers. If it's a money match and it makes you feel better, go for it. I think it's way too obsessive. </p><p></p><p>In the end, developing the load <em>properly</em> will preclude you from having to jump through all of the hoops that many folks do. An Optimal Charge Weight load will be a lot more tolerant of issues which bring about minor pressure changes. <a href="http://www.clik.to/optimalchargeweight" target="_blank">www.clik.to/optimalchargeweight</a> /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif</p><p></p><p>Dan</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="green 788, post: 97025, member: 3781"] boomstick... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] That's like walking into a bar and asking what the best tasting beer is. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] But there are some basics which no one should argue with... Basically, you want to reduce the ES (Extreme Spread) of your handload. That means the difference between the slowest bullet and the fastest bullet. You'll hear folks toss out the Standard Deviation number, but that's just this side of worthless if you ask me. Extreme Spread is where it's at--if you want [i]every[/i] shot to go where you aim. Some things to get the ES down would be: Segregate the brass to 4% maximum case weight spread. (2% heavier than the mean, 2% lighter). Then use a "runny" ball powder like W748 and get a volume check on each case. Basically, fill it to heaping with the 748 and weigh the charge. All charges should be within .1 grains on .308 sized cases, and around .2 on larger cases (my criteria). You can weigh your bullets if you like, and segregate them into groups. Use the odd ones at closer ranges, save the perfect ones for the 600 yards and farther groups. I've yet to see any evidence that deburring flash holes helps much if any. If you have obvious shavings of brass in the flash hole, poke a toothpick in there and move them aside. There just isn't any believable science that says that a tiny burr of brass is going to change anything significantly here--so long as it isn't obstructing the flash hole. If you move it aside with a toothpick it'll get flattened against the case head on the first firing. Some guys turn necks. My choice would be to purchase good brass instead (if available). Don't goober with your primer pockets. Those primer pocket uniformers do more harm than good in my experience. Some guys weigh primers. If it's a money match and it makes you feel better, go for it. I think it's way too obsessive. In the end, developing the load [i]properly[/i] will preclude you from having to jump through all of the hoops that many folks do. An Optimal Charge Weight load will be a lot more tolerant of issues which bring about minor pressure changes. [url="http://www.clik.to/optimalchargeweight"]www.clik.to/optimalchargeweight[/url] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] Dan [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
Basics of Reloading for Long Range Shooting
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