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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Barrel break in
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<blockquote data-quote="lamiglas" data-source="post: 1791597" data-attributes="member: 11075"><p>The cleaning method I use: I use a Sinclair chamber cleaning kit to clean the action/ chamber area. Then for the barrel, I use possom hollow bore guides, dewey coated rods, the proper size boretech jags that dont give false copper readings and just recently I added heat shrink tubing over the brass portion of the dewey rod, also to prevent a false copper reading. I am currently using boretech eliminator hut have used the same method with sweets. I dont use brushes unless I am dealing with the dreaded carbon ring. I use the appropriate size patch that gives a snug fit. I wet a patch and run it full length down the bore and pull the patch once it exits the muzzle. I follow with a dry patch. I repeat this until both the wet patch and the dry patch come out clean ( no blue). During the process sometimes I will stroke the wet patch back and forth before it exits the muzzle. I dont wait between the wet and dry patches unless it appears that the copper is going to be stubborn. If there continues to be alot of blue after a few times, then I will let the solvent soak for a few minutes before going to a dry patch. Towards the end ill use more than one dry patch to get out as much as I can before going back to a wet patch. Once both the wet and dry patch come out clean, I will run 4 or 5 more dry patches in effort to get all of the solvent out. I forgot to mention previously that the first two patches are always black. The third I usually see a little blue with some black and after the 3rd I am down to copper (blue only) and will just see blue until its removed. I hope that answered your question and I hope it helped.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="lamiglas, post: 1791597, member: 11075"] The cleaning method I use: I use a Sinclair chamber cleaning kit to clean the action/ chamber area. Then for the barrel, I use possom hollow bore guides, dewey coated rods, the proper size boretech jags that dont give false copper readings and just recently I added heat shrink tubing over the brass portion of the dewey rod, also to prevent a false copper reading. I am currently using boretech eliminator hut have used the same method with sweets. I dont use brushes unless I am dealing with the dreaded carbon ring. I use the appropriate size patch that gives a snug fit. I wet a patch and run it full length down the bore and pull the patch once it exits the muzzle. I follow with a dry patch. I repeat this until both the wet patch and the dry patch come out clean ( no blue). During the process sometimes I will stroke the wet patch back and forth before it exits the muzzle. I dont wait between the wet and dry patches unless it appears that the copper is going to be stubborn. If there continues to be alot of blue after a few times, then I will let the solvent soak for a few minutes before going to a dry patch. Towards the end ill use more than one dry patch to get out as much as I can before going back to a wet patch. Once both the wet and dry patch come out clean, I will run 4 or 5 more dry patches in effort to get all of the solvent out. I forgot to mention previously that the first two patches are always black. The third I usually see a little blue with some black and after the 3rd I am down to copper (blue only) and will just see blue until its removed. I hope that answered your question and I hope it helped. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Barrel break in
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