Barrel block/clamp questions

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by tresmon, Nov 30, 2010.

  1. tresmon

    tresmon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    87
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2008
    Hiya fellas,

    I'm thinking I can save money and create several solutions by converting my Savage long action (300 WM) F-class,Tactical, hunting rifle to a barrel clamp set up. I'm wanting to rebarrel to a 32" barrel. I know my old two screw 110 action is not very rigid. So between what I already have on hand to work with and being a machinist I think A barrel block set up would be the way to go. My stock is big enough to accept inletting for the block, I have the action and it's a proven shooter. The block would negate the receiver's lacking rigidity
    I dont have much money but can save a heap as I'm a machinist.

    So any way I have been looking on the net for info on barrel blocks/clamps. I need any links & info I can get. I have questions:

    1. does a barrel block system still use a recoil lug or is clamping pressure high enough to overcome recoil forces? or is a shoulder turned on the barrel to act as a recoil lug of sorts on the front end of the block?

    2. how big does it need to be? (Length primarily) LxWxH?

    I figure I will machine the block out of Aluminum. What series of Aluminum do you guys recommend?

    Thanks so much,
    Tres
     
  2. ewallace

    ewallace Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    991
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2002
    I have made some barrel blocks out of aluminum and if you are going to use aluminum i would use epoxy to hold the barrel into the block. You dont need a recoil lug the barrel block is going to work as a recoil lug. As for length from 4" to 20" should work depending on how much barrel you want to support and your stock.
     

  3. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

    Messages:
    4,803
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2007
    Most of the barrel blocks now are aluminum and split and about 9".

    LR shooters and smiths tested different lengths and about 9" seems to be the optimum.

    As for the split block vs a solid block with hole and epoxy, hell of a lot easier getting the barrel out later on and putting the new on in. You will not regret going split block.

    Go to websites for Bruce Baer, Leonard Baity, Gordy Gritters and other top LR smiths to look at their blocks.

    BH