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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Ball powder---myths or facts
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<blockquote data-quote="Fiftydriver" data-source="post: 660159" data-attributes="member: 10"><p>Ball powders certainly have their place, most get into trouble when they try to use the wrong ball powder in the wrong chambering. No matter what you do, ball powders will produce more carbon fouling on average then stock powders, that is a fact.</p><p> </p><p>That said, if you load to top working pressures, ball powders do not produce excessive carbon fouling, clean the bore every 40-50 rounds and you will be fine.</p><p> </p><p>Another fact is that MOST ball powders are more sensitive to temp changes. Ramshot powders are pretty good as far as stability for ball powders, not the full equal to the Hodgdon extreme powders but in my testing as good or better then the IMR or RL lines of stick powders. Again, if used in the correct application, ball powders do just fine, used in the wrong application, you will see crazy velocity spreads. </p><p> </p><p>Generally speaking ball powders perform the best when used in chamberings that have a large capacity for the burn rate of powder being used. Most of my experience with ball powders have come with my Allen Magnum line of wildcats, specifically my 257 Allen Magnum, 6.5mm Allen Magnum, 270 Allen Magnum and 7mm Allen Magnums.</p><p> </p><p>In these instances, I was getting serious powder bridging issues with any stick powders. Switching to the slow surplus ball powders such as WC-872 and WC-860 completely solved the problem with powder bridging. When loaded in these very low expansion ratio chamberings and loaded to full pressure, the powders also burned relatively cleanly.......</p><p> </p><p>Where a stick powder will have around a 5-8% load density window on larger chamberings and still maintain efficency, the ball powders have a much narrower 3-5% load density pressure window. Reduced loads ARE NOT a good idea with most ball powders.</p><p> </p><p>As far as ball powders burning up throats, this is a myth. I have tested barrel temps with ball powders compared to stick powders and its clear that ball powders produce less bore heat. Not significantly less but they do burn cooler then stick powders. So to say they burn out throats faster then stick powders is a myth.</p><p> </p><p>Back to the temp sensitive issue. If your hunting over a wide range of elevations and temp conditions, its best to either use a chambering that you can use stick powders OR develope two loads and drop charts that will cover as many conditions as possible. I used to develope my loads in the normal temps I would be using the rifle in. For example, for summer use, I would develope a load in 80 degree temps. For a fall/winter load I would develope a load in 30 degree temps.</p><p> </p><p>Another thing you can do is simply develope a summer load and then when the temps drop, develope a new drop chart off the slightly reduced numbers. that way you only have to use one load that will be safe all the time and then just switch to a cold weather drop chart.</p><p> </p><p>For me personally, most of these rifles were big game rifles only. As such, I had no real need for a hot weather load so I just developed loads in conditions similiar to what I would be hunting in and go with it. While there is some change in trajectory with different temps, I have NEVER had a situation where I missed a big game animal because of ball powder so while its true they are more temp sensitive then stick powders, the actual difference down range is often overexaggerated in my experience.</p><p> </p><p>Used correctly, ball powders can produce extremely consistant performance, its all in the application they are used in more then anything else. As mentioned while there is certainly some facts out there about ball powder and its problems, I would also add that most of these are severely exaggerated or used in the wrong application which gives them a bad name.</p><p> </p><p>As far as conventional chamberings, I have used H-380 in my 22-250 for decades, as I have used H-414 in the 22-250 AI. I have also used H-335 and BLC-2 in tens of thousands of rounds of 223 ammo. All with match grade accuracy and consistancy.</p><p> </p><p>Again, used in the right application, ball powders are great, just like any powder.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fiftydriver, post: 660159, member: 10"] Ball powders certainly have their place, most get into trouble when they try to use the wrong ball powder in the wrong chambering. No matter what you do, ball powders will produce more carbon fouling on average then stock powders, that is a fact. That said, if you load to top working pressures, ball powders do not produce excessive carbon fouling, clean the bore every 40-50 rounds and you will be fine. Another fact is that MOST ball powders are more sensitive to temp changes. Ramshot powders are pretty good as far as stability for ball powders, not the full equal to the Hodgdon extreme powders but in my testing as good or better then the IMR or RL lines of stick powders. Again, if used in the correct application, ball powders do just fine, used in the wrong application, you will see crazy velocity spreads. Generally speaking ball powders perform the best when used in chamberings that have a large capacity for the burn rate of powder being used. Most of my experience with ball powders have come with my Allen Magnum line of wildcats, specifically my 257 Allen Magnum, 6.5mm Allen Magnum, 270 Allen Magnum and 7mm Allen Magnums. In these instances, I was getting serious powder bridging issues with any stick powders. Switching to the slow surplus ball powders such as WC-872 and WC-860 completely solved the problem with powder bridging. When loaded in these very low expansion ratio chamberings and loaded to full pressure, the powders also burned relatively cleanly....... Where a stick powder will have around a 5-8% load density window on larger chamberings and still maintain efficency, the ball powders have a much narrower 3-5% load density pressure window. Reduced loads ARE NOT a good idea with most ball powders. As far as ball powders burning up throats, this is a myth. I have tested barrel temps with ball powders compared to stick powders and its clear that ball powders produce less bore heat. Not significantly less but they do burn cooler then stick powders. So to say they burn out throats faster then stick powders is a myth. Back to the temp sensitive issue. If your hunting over a wide range of elevations and temp conditions, its best to either use a chambering that you can use stick powders OR develope two loads and drop charts that will cover as many conditions as possible. I used to develope my loads in the normal temps I would be using the rifle in. For example, for summer use, I would develope a load in 80 degree temps. For a fall/winter load I would develope a load in 30 degree temps. Another thing you can do is simply develope a summer load and then when the temps drop, develope a new drop chart off the slightly reduced numbers. that way you only have to use one load that will be safe all the time and then just switch to a cold weather drop chart. For me personally, most of these rifles were big game rifles only. As such, I had no real need for a hot weather load so I just developed loads in conditions similiar to what I would be hunting in and go with it. While there is some change in trajectory with different temps, I have NEVER had a situation where I missed a big game animal because of ball powder so while its true they are more temp sensitive then stick powders, the actual difference down range is often overexaggerated in my experience. Used correctly, ball powders can produce extremely consistant performance, its all in the application they are used in more then anything else. As mentioned while there is certainly some facts out there about ball powder and its problems, I would also add that most of these are severely exaggerated or used in the wrong application which gives them a bad name. As far as conventional chamberings, I have used H-380 in my 22-250 for decades, as I have used H-414 in the 22-250 AI. I have also used H-335 and BLC-2 in tens of thousands of rounds of 223 ammo. All with match grade accuracy and consistancy. Again, used in the right application, ball powders are great, just like any powder. [/QUOTE]
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