Good morning guys, i have been a bow hunter for a few years but never really got into bow tuning and stuff. more so just shot alot and hunted. well last year during bow season for whitetail i started to get into it more and have changed the way i shoot and changed some stuff on the bow. i noticed last year that at ranges of 30 yards or more it seems like my arrows arent flying true. it looks like sometimes they are wobbling all over the place on the way to the target. i am a big guy 6'-11" and my draw length is short for me but i make it work. im shooting a hoyt CRX35 thats had the longest cam modules put in that i have had for what seems like forever. I was wondering if you guys thought the arrow spine could be causing this or what it may be and or what to help me figure out if they are actually flying wired or if its my eyes... i dont have any arrows that are long enough with a different spine to try. I was wondering if i could paper tune it at a range such as 30 yards or is that to far? i dont seem to notice it at 20 yards or under but the arrow is getting to the target so fast its hard to tell. Any input would be great.. Thanks guys
ARROWS NOT FLYING TRUE
- Thread starter 55stone
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Creedmoor shooter
Well-Known Member
Could be a few things.
1. Could be the way your realeaseing the arrow. If you jerk it will cause some flight issues.
2. Could be spine. There are spine charts that you use to determine your proper spine. I'd lean towards a heavier spine if your like on the line
3. Your rest might need to be adjusted or cabled twisted etc. Paper tuning will tell you best what's going on.
Lastly, get a bow that fits you. You'll shoot soooooo much better. If the bow doesnt fit, you'll never shoot to your potential.
1. Could be the way your realeaseing the arrow. If you jerk it will cause some flight issues.
2. Could be spine. There are spine charts that you use to determine your proper spine. I'd lean towards a heavier spine if your like on the line
3. Your rest might need to be adjusted or cabled twisted etc. Paper tuning will tell you best what's going on.
Lastly, get a bow that fits you. You'll shoot soooooo much better. If the bow doesnt fit, you'll never shoot to your potential.
Orange Dust
Well-Known Member
Paper tune @ 3yds with no vanes or feathers. If GTG and the problem is still there, it is at one end or the other of your arrow. You cannot paper tune a miss spined arrow. Make sure the broadheads spin true first. Then if you still have stabilization problems it is at the other end. If you are shooting vanes you will have to increase the size until it stops. They should always be helical fletched for hunting arrows, straight fletch only works right for nibbs. Finally, simply changing from vanes to feathers can fix this sometimes without increasing fletching size.
cohunt
Well-Known Member
here is a spine chart to see if you are close -- each manufacture seems to have their own chart so it is best to use the chart from the manufacture of the arrows
get the right spine, then paper tune--make sure you have your wrist position correct and consistent--are you using a mechanical release?
I do my initial tuning at 5'--but here is an article that will help you understand tuning at different distances https://www.g5prime.com/expert-tips-paper-tuning-bow/
make sure you use the proper weight tip ( field point or broadhead) for your arrow weight/spine/length
get the right spine, then paper tune--make sure you have your wrist position correct and consistent--are you using a mechanical release?
I do my initial tuning at 5'--but here is an article that will help you understand tuning at different distances https://www.g5prime.com/expert-tips-paper-tuning-bow/
make sure you use the proper weight tip ( field point or broadhead) for your arrow weight/spine/length
Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
I shoot a Hoyt DoubleXL (31-33") that is for us normal size guys and it may give you the draw length that you need to shoot properly.
https://hoyt.com/compound-bows/double-xl/specifications
If you cannot come to full draw up against the wall, you will likely pluck the string with release causing all sorts of wonderful flight aberrations. I would also bet your arrow spine is way off for your draw length. Based upon likely physiological estimate of your draw length as a 6'11" normal sized human being it is likely to be 250 to start. I shoot fixed blade Thunderhead out to 60 yards with perfect flight on Black Eagle Rampage Pro Series 300. The spine drives everything when you start getting into orangutan arms like us normal folk. I think Hoyt can also increase the draw length on this bow if you contact their Tech Support.
My Hoyt will shoot 314 fps with 450 grain arrow @70 lbs so you also get the added bonus of power stroke and velocity with your draw length. I have also learned over the years the long draw folks like us need to be aware of using stiffer spines to offset the increased power stroke due to longer arrows.
If your bow doesn't fit your draw length I will guarantee you will be chasing gremlins on arrow flight and accuracy forever since you can never establish a consistent anchor point when your arm, wrist, hand etc cocked different every time you draw.
https://hoyt.com/compound-bows/double-xl/specifications
If you cannot come to full draw up against the wall, you will likely pluck the string with release causing all sorts of wonderful flight aberrations. I would also bet your arrow spine is way off for your draw length. Based upon likely physiological estimate of your draw length as a 6'11" normal sized human being it is likely to be 250 to start. I shoot fixed blade Thunderhead out to 60 yards with perfect flight on Black Eagle Rampage Pro Series 300. The spine drives everything when you start getting into orangutan arms like us normal folk. I think Hoyt can also increase the draw length on this bow if you contact their Tech Support.
My Hoyt will shoot 314 fps with 450 grain arrow @70 lbs so you also get the added bonus of power stroke and velocity with your draw length. I have also learned over the years the long draw folks like us need to be aware of using stiffer spines to offset the increased power stroke due to longer arrows.
If your bow doesn't fit your draw length I will guarantee you will be chasing gremlins on arrow flight and accuracy forever since you can never establish a consistent anchor point when your arm, wrist, hand etc cocked different every time you draw.
Chris-Lawson
Member
I had a similar issue (arrow appeared to be wobbling in flight). I shortened by arrows and it appeared to help the issue. Also my fletching was hitting my drop away rest which contributed to the issue.
Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
Shortening the arrows will stiffen the spine which is always a good influence on arrow flight. When in doubt go to stiffer spine which is not always heavier. Plus the down range inertia is improved immensely.
Ckgworks
Well-Known Member
How do broadhead fly? Do they hit the same as field tip? One trick I do for fine turning is to shoot both field tips and broadheads at a target. If they do not impact the same, move your rest until they do. So if broadhead hits high, move rest down. Hits left, move rest right, etc... the amount you move your rest is minuscule, but it'll move impact alot. The farther you shoot, the more dramatic the difference so I usually fine tune this way at 40 yards first. This has been more effective for me than long range paper tuning...... after this is done, your bow should be tuned very good. For me, I need to focus on my bow grip, if I don't I can induce tuning issues with my wrist.
Goring2358
Well-Known Member
The arrows I'm talking about are 29" Gold Tip 5570 Hunter Arrows with 3 4" offset vanes . I use 100 grain field points. My bow is set at 56lbs and have 28 inch draw length. I'm right on the edge of the arrow spine recommendation but I didn't want it underspined so that's why I went with the 5570s. Any advice? Will blazer vanes be better than the 4" ones? Or would putting 4" feathers on help a lot? I'd like to shoot blazers but if they won't perform well for me that may not be in my best interest.
