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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Any Stock Finishers here ? I have a couple questions
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<blockquote data-quote="jpndave" data-source="post: 2970342" data-attributes="member: 5437"><p>As long as the oil you used before is similar, you don't need to strip it. Permalyn is a very high-quality Linseed oil impregnated with urethane for durability/water resistance. Build with the sealer until the surface starts to gloss then add cutting (sanding) the surface after coats until the pores are filled. Lastly do the final coat and buff to finish. Rotten stone can be used on that last coat.</p><p></p><p>As to sheen, the only place a high gloss finish belongs on wood is the local bar countertops. High gloss detracts from fine figure. Flat finishes hide it too in a different way. The satin you get with oil is the perfect gloss level to let the figure shine and not detract from it.</p><p></p><p>That said, spray-on finishes that are natively glossy use flattening agents to lower the gloss. Those agents cloud the finish, more with additional coats and to get progressively lower gloss levels. When spraying those finishes on, I build with the glossy sealer then final coat with 1-2 of the lower gloss top coat. The oils don't do that but take a substantial amount of time to apply and traditionally don't protect as well. Permalyn solves the second issue.</p><p></p><p>Years ago Steven Dodd Hughes did an excellent write-up on finishing wood gunstocks in Shooting Sportsman. I think that article is also in one of his books. I'll check in a bit when I get a chance to review.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jpndave, post: 2970342, member: 5437"] As long as the oil you used before is similar, you don't need to strip it. Permalyn is a very high-quality Linseed oil impregnated with urethane for durability/water resistance. Build with the sealer until the surface starts to gloss then add cutting (sanding) the surface after coats until the pores are filled. Lastly do the final coat and buff to finish. Rotten stone can be used on that last coat. As to sheen, the only place a high gloss finish belongs on wood is the local bar countertops. High gloss detracts from fine figure. Flat finishes hide it too in a different way. The satin you get with oil is the perfect gloss level to let the figure shine and not detract from it. That said, spray-on finishes that are natively glossy use flattening agents to lower the gloss. Those agents cloud the finish, more with additional coats and to get progressively lower gloss levels. When spraying those finishes on, I build with the glossy sealer then final coat with 1-2 of the lower gloss top coat. The oils don't do that but take a substantial amount of time to apply and traditionally don't protect as well. Permalyn solves the second issue. Years ago Steven Dodd Hughes did an excellent write-up on finishing wood gunstocks in Shooting Sportsman. I think that article is also in one of his books. I'll check in a bit when I get a chance to review. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Any Stock Finishers here ? I have a couple questions
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