Another Darn Muzzle brake question

Discussion in 'Equipment Discussions' started by Brambles, Apr 21, 2008.

  1. Brambles

    Brambles Well-Known Member

    Apr 20, 2008
    Sorry to bring up this subject, I did a search and got a bunch of information but none of it answered my question.

    Here's what I'm wanting to do.

    I'm building a semi light hunting rifle capable out to 800 yards MAX, its going to be a 300 ultra mag and considering the weight of the rifle the recoil and muzzle jump will be ferocious without a brake.

    I don't want some big ugly brake or something overly long, I'm looking for something capable of being profiled to .600 or so, or as close to it as possible. The rifle is mainly used in the field so no bottom ports would be best and I would need one that is good for maintaining sight picture.

    This will be my first "braked" rifle so I don't know much about them yet.

    Thanks again
  2. Shawn Carlock

    Shawn Carlock Sponsor

    Jun 11, 2007

    It will be difficult to get what you want in a "profiled" brake. A .600" brake with a .335" hole in it or so does not leave much of a brake to work with. You can have an effective brake for you rifle but I would pretty much count on it being at least .750" in diameter and around 2" longer than the muzzle is now.

  3. Brambles

    Brambles Well-Known Member

    Apr 20, 2008
    Thanks for the reply Shawn

    I was cruizing your website and seen this picture

    Defensive Edge Muzzle Brake

    What is the barrel diameter on this rifle? Looks to be smaller than .750 but it might just be the picture.
  4. Fiftydriver

    Fiftydriver <strong>Official LRH Sponsor</strong>

    Jun 12, 2004
    I would agree with all that Shawn says, a muzzle brake works on two basic things, 1 being muzzle pressure and 2 being that the brake needs to have the surface area for that muzzle pressure to act against to counteract the recoil energy generated by the rifle.

    looking at muzzle pressure, the more the better when getting a muzzle brake to work effectively and efficently. For example, take a 7 lb rifle in 300 WSM and another 7 lb rifle in 300 RUM. IF you use the correct break design, the 300 RUM will often have no more and sometimes even less felt recoil then the much smaller 300 WSM, why, the RUM has a huge advantage on muzzle pressure which forces the muzzle brake to work much more efficently to slow the rifle that has been set in motion from firing the rifle.

    The larger the case capacity for a given bore diameter, generally, the higher the muzzle pressure will be. Even if the muzzle pressure is the same as a smaller chambering, the muzzle gas volume will be much more, another benefit of large cases with a muzzle brake.

    Now to the muzzle brake. Surface area is critical. The more the better at having an effective muzzle brake to reduce felt recoil. Unfortunately, most of us want our rifles to be somewhat attractive and a huge brake just does not look good on most light rifles.

    Still, its a compromise. As Shawn already mentioned, a diameter of around 0.750" is about as small as you should go with if you REALLY want to effectively reduce felt recoil.

    On top of that, you want a partition style brake that has 3-4 large ports with solid partitions between each. They have solid bottoms so that you can shoot off prone positions without getting covered with ground debris as well. For reducing felt recoil, these are far better then brakes with radial ports all around the circumference of the brake. If your looking to reduce felt recoil, get a partition style brake.

    SO which one should you go with, there are several out there. I currently use and endores only three brands of brakes. For conventional rifles I recommend two. THe Defensive Edge 0.750" 3 port brake and the Holland Quick Discharge brake.

    The DE brake is slimmer but longer. THe Holland is shorter but slightly larger in diameter. Both have features that help limit muzzle jump. He Holland is more aggressive at this because it has three top ports designed specifically to control muzzle jump.

    The DE 0.750 is a bit more suttle in controling muzzle jump as its partitions are relieved slightly at the top of each side of the port. This allows a slight amount of down thrust to he generated by the venting gas.

    Many assume the more aggressive top ports of the Holland would be the best in a rifle with a high recoiling chambering. That in fact is not the case in a light rifle. Its a fine balance between controling muzzle jump and going overboard.

    I actually prefer the Holland in smaller chamberings, 300 Win Mag class and smaller. In chamberings such as the 300 RUM, the Holland can produce far more down thrust then is wanted in a lightweight rifle. Just as muzzle jump is a problem, to much down thrust is the same problem, just in the opposite direction.

    For the large chamberings, the DE is a better balance in my opinion as it produces just enough down thrust to keep the muzzle level but not so much that if you shoot the rifle off hand that you loose your sight picture because of down thrust..

    You really can not go wrong with either but in your instance I would go with the DE .750 if you want a bit of muzzle jump control but not to much down thrust and good felt recoil reduction.

    I use alot of both on customers rifles. I just build myself a light weight big game rifle in my 270 wildcat chambering. Doing the barrel break in with load development the 0.750" DE brake works to perfection. I can shoot the rifle offhand and when she goes off, the rifle simply sits there. No down thrust, no muzzle jump, no real recoil, just sits there. These are not full tilt loads but they are pretty hot compared to pretty much any big 7mm magnum out there. a 169.5 gr ULD RBBT loaded to around 3300 fps with top loads and recoil feels about like a 243 Win in this 8 lb rifle.

    You can not go wrong with either brake maker. I mainly use Shawns brakes because they are affordable and do what they are supposed to do. You really need a partition style brake though and you will need a bit more brake diameter then muzzle diameter to get the most effectiveness out of your brake.

    Kirby Allen(50)
  5. tjonh2001

    tjonh2001 Well-Known Member

    Aug 13, 2007
    if i were you i would call nate at straight shot gunsmithing or pm 308nate here. he makes some pretty amazing brakes. i am haveing him build an ultra light gun right now. i think that i am going to have him install his v port brake that is made of titanium, much lighter. i have on of these in stainless on my 7mm wsm that he build they are great and good guy to deal with...