Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing Lapua brass
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="8andbait" data-source="post: 853017" data-attributes="member: 40850"><p>The biggest problem I have with annealing lapua brass is that I can't see it change colors. Other brass gives an obvious blue line that travels down the case but I don't get it with lapua. I will typically count to 10 while spinning the brass and it comes out pretty good. Obviously the time required will be determined by your heat source. I use a basic propane torch that is used to sweat copper pipes and such. I do notice the force required to seat the bullets is less once annealed and will need slightly more force once the necks start to harden.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="8andbait, post: 853017, member: 40850"] The biggest problem I have with annealing lapua brass is that I can't see it change colors. Other brass gives an obvious blue line that travels down the case but I don't get it with lapua. I will typically count to 10 while spinning the brass and it comes out pretty good. Obviously the time required will be determined by your heat source. I use a basic propane torch that is used to sweat copper pipes and such. I do notice the force required to seat the bullets is less once annealed and will need slightly more force once the necks start to harden. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing Lapua brass
Top