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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Annealing? How do YOU do it? How often?
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<blockquote data-quote="VenatusDominus" data-source="post: 2732500" data-attributes="member: 117869"><p>The time/temperature plot for annealing cartridge brass is an "S"curve, with the front and back ends being essentially flat. It is far better to "over do" than "under do" as under doing places you on the middle of the "S" curve where a small difference in time/temp can have huge swings in the amount of anneal/stress relief, or on the flat front end of the "S" curve where even large changes produce essentially no changes in the brass. If you over do, you are on the flat back end of the "S" curve where even relatively large temp or time changes make very little difference in amount of anneal/stress relief. You just don't want to "over do" the point of melting the brass. This is precisely what the AMP annealer does in Aztec mode, it melts a case neck to figure out how much energy is required (there is a distinct change in input energy when the brass changes from solid to liquid) and then backs off the energy slightly to define the proper anneal setting. There is and Eric Cortina video illustrating no significant difference in measured neck tension between flame annealed brass at 10,15 and 20 seconds.</p><p></p><p>If you read the scientific study from post #51 in this tread, even at 1300F for 30 minutes, the brass was not over annealed. We know that brass generally begins to (in the dark) glow red around 1050F. There are charts showing the color of glow and approximate temp. If you get the neck/shoulder to glow cherry red in ambient light for a second or two, then you are definitely getting on the flat side of the curve. The flame sensor I use is very sensitive and can be adjusted for desired amount of glow before it stops the annealing process.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="VenatusDominus, post: 2732500, member: 117869"] The time/temperature plot for annealing cartridge brass is an "S"curve, with the front and back ends being essentially flat. It is far better to "over do" than "under do" as under doing places you on the middle of the "S" curve where a small difference in time/temp can have huge swings in the amount of anneal/stress relief, or on the flat front end of the "S" curve where even large changes produce essentially no changes in the brass. If you over do, you are on the flat back end of the "S" curve where even relatively large temp or time changes make very little difference in amount of anneal/stress relief. You just don't want to "over do" the point of melting the brass. This is precisely what the AMP annealer does in Aztec mode, it melts a case neck to figure out how much energy is required (there is a distinct change in input energy when the brass changes from solid to liquid) and then backs off the energy slightly to define the proper anneal setting. There is and Eric Cortina video illustrating no significant difference in measured neck tension between flame annealed brass at 10,15 and 20 seconds. If you read the scientific study from post #51 in this tread, even at 1300F for 30 minutes, the brass was not over annealed. We know that brass generally begins to (in the dark) glow red around 1050F. There are charts showing the color of glow and approximate temp. If you get the neck/shoulder to glow cherry red in ambient light for a second or two, then you are definitely getting on the flat side of the curve. The flame sensor I use is very sensitive and can be adjusted for desired amount of glow before it stops the annealing process. [/QUOTE]
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Annealing? How do YOU do it? How often?
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