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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Annealing cases??
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<blockquote data-quote="Goofycat" data-source="post: 674370" data-attributes="member: 6504"><p>...or give it to your kiddies or grandkiddies as whistles. Overheated (over-annealed) brass is dangerous to shoot. Do NOT use it. if you want to get into annealing, practice it first with some old brass so you can make the mistakes before you screw up the stuff you want to reload. Anneal in a low-light room; if you don't, you will tend to over-anneal. You should use a 1/2" tip on your propane torch, although a 5/8" tip will work. All you need is a rotary drill and a socket that allows you to fit the case loosely enough so that you can easily dump it into water afterwards. You can also use butane instead of propane. Butane is far cooler than propane, so it will take more time if you use butane (see 4Mesh's post above). </p><p></p><p>Do you need to quench in water? No, but it acts as a cushion for the cases when you want to eject them from your socket without damaging the cases after you anneal them. You could just as easily dump them into a bucket of rags, but you might cause dents in the necks of the annealed cases as you dump more and more of them into the bucket. </p><p></p><p>Annealing does not improve accuracy, and in some cases may decrease accuracy....depending on the rifle, the shooter and reloading technique. The purpose is to allow you to "refresh" the brass after it has been work-hardened from having been shot a few times and to prevent the brass from splitting at the neck due to work-hardening. You don't need to anneal new brass UNLESS you are necking down to produce wildcat cases. Necking down immediately work-hardens these cases.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Goofycat, post: 674370, member: 6504"] ...or give it to your kiddies or grandkiddies as whistles. Overheated (over-annealed) brass is dangerous to shoot. Do NOT use it. if you want to get into annealing, practice it first with some old brass so you can make the mistakes before you screw up the stuff you want to reload. Anneal in a low-light room; if you don't, you will tend to over-anneal. You should use a 1/2" tip on your propane torch, although a 5/8" tip will work. All you need is a rotary drill and a socket that allows you to fit the case loosely enough so that you can easily dump it into water afterwards. You can also use butane instead of propane. Butane is far cooler than propane, so it will take more time if you use butane (see 4Mesh's post above). Do you need to quench in water? No, but it acts as a cushion for the cases when you want to eject them from your socket without damaging the cases after you anneal them. You could just as easily dump them into a bucket of rags, but you might cause dents in the necks of the annealed cases as you dump more and more of them into the bucket. Annealing does not improve accuracy, and in some cases may decrease accuracy....depending on the rifle, the shooter and reloading technique. The purpose is to allow you to "refresh" the brass after it has been work-hardened from having been shot a few times and to prevent the brass from splitting at the neck due to work-hardening. You don't need to anneal new brass UNLESS you are necking down to produce wildcat cases. Necking down immediately work-hardens these cases. [/QUOTE]
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Annealing cases??
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