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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Advice wanted on my sizing / brass usage.
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<blockquote data-quote="ricka0" data-source="post: 65380" data-attributes="member: 3086"><p>I really like Waltech Jim idea where he writes: <strong> <font color="red"> I score the case heads with an old sharpened screw driver. </font> </strong> Maybe I could ask Kirby to <strong><em> weld </em></strong> a screwdriver tip into my bolt face to automatically score the brass /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif</p><p>Annealing won't help your web problem, but it will prevent neck splitting - a problem u don't have. If you're interested in annealing, look at <a href="http://groups.msn.com/50bmg/annealingbrass.msnw" target="_blank">my annealing page</a> </p><p></p><p>I don't FLS, I <strong> <font color="red"> PFLR </font> - Partial Full Length Resize</strong> - You can read about that at <a href="http://groups.msn.com/50bmg/partialfull.msnw" target="_blank">PFLR</a> When I get my Kirby/Lilja RUMS back from Kirby, I'll probably spring for some custom dies (you send in 5 fired brass and they scan your fire formed brass and create a die to your exact chamber)</p><p></p><p>You might want to review <a href="http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/headspace/index.asp" target="_blank">Measuring Headspace </a> - You should know your headspace and that is a likely cause of web stretching. I think goodGrouper is right on when he states [ QUOTE ]</p><p><strong>You may have a die that is really short and is cranking the shoulder back very drastically. Then you fireform it forward a mile every time you pull the trigger. Then you crank the shoulder back again and the whole process is like a tug of war match. Back and forth, back and forth until it snaps! </strong> </p><p></p><p>[/ QUOTE ]</p><p>But I thought it was more common for the opposite, too much headspace</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ricka0, post: 65380, member: 3086"] I really like Waltech Jim idea where he writes: [b] <font color="red"> I score the case heads with an old sharpened screw driver. </font> [/b] Maybe I could ask Kirby to [b][i] weld [/i][/b][i][/i] a screwdriver tip into my bolt face to automatically score the brass [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] Annealing won't help your web problem, but it will prevent neck splitting - a problem u don't have. If you're interested in annealing, look at [url="http://groups.msn.com/50bmg/annealingbrass.msnw"]my annealing page[/url] I don't FLS, I [b] <font color="red"> PFLR </font> - Partial Full Length Resize[/b] - You can read about that at [url="http://groups.msn.com/50bmg/partialfull.msnw"]PFLR[/url] When I get my Kirby/Lilja RUMS back from Kirby, I'll probably spring for some custom dies (you send in 5 fired brass and they scan your fire formed brass and create a die to your exact chamber) You might want to review [url="http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/headspace/index.asp"]Measuring Headspace [/url] - You should know your headspace and that is a likely cause of web stretching. I think goodGrouper is right on when he states [ QUOTE ] [b]You may have a die that is really short and is cranking the shoulder back very drastically. Then you fireform it forward a mile every time you pull the trigger. Then you crank the shoulder back again and the whole process is like a tug of war match. Back and forth, back and forth until it snaps! [/b] [/ QUOTE ] But I thought it was more common for the opposite, too much headspace [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Advice wanted on my sizing / brass usage.
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