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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Advice please on my finicky .308...
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<blockquote data-quote="Rheinhardt" data-source="post: 94950" data-attributes="member: 5142"><p>Regarding seating depth: there is an optimal depth. You need to seet the bullet such that your arent jamming the bullet into the lands and your not way away from the lands. I would suggest fireforming all your brass, that is to fire any old load in the gun to fit the brass to the dimensions to your chamber. Then I would take whatever bullet you want to try and seat it kind of long. Put the bullet into the chamber and close the bolt. Pull the bullet back out and look and see any marks on the copper jacket that are scratched from touching the lands. Mark it with a black sharpie, lower the seating depth ont he die a little bit and repeat. Repeat this process lowering the bullet only a 1/8-1/4 turn on the die screw. What you want to do is get the bullet so it is JUST off the lands, as close as you can get it without the bullet actually touching. This will ensure the bullet hits the lands perfect but the bullet isn't under any force from the lands allowing the bullet a mini head start so we dont generate excessive pressure at the get-go.</p><p></p><p>Regarding powder charges: Many people simply start way too hot on the powder charge. I'd start at the very low end of the spectrum from your reloading manual and work up in half grain increments. The most accurate loads I develop are mostly at the low end of the pressure scale. if your using military brass for reloading, I would say take a grain or 2 off the lowest indicated powder charge and start from there as military brass tends to be thicker (less internal volume so you get higher pressures with less powder).</p><p></p><p>Regarding bullet choice: some guns like certain bullets more then others. You maybe have to try lots of different bullets with lots of different powders before you find something that works. I once had a winchester model 70 in 308win that liked 110gr bullets and 180gr bullets and everything inbetween shot like crap. **** it I could figure it out, but thats what it liked. That 1 in 10 twist on that savage is really fast even for a 20" barrel. I'd try something like the 175gr-180gr matcking. Could be the lighter bullets are getting to much spin.</p><p></p><p>Regarding barrel conditioning: if you havent put alot of ammuntion thrut he barrel yet, there are lots of methods out there to properly condition the barrel prior to testing handloads.</p><p></p><p>Regarding mounts/optics: there is just so much that can go wrong here but the problem I see the most is people not lapping rings or using foam ring tape prior to clamping that scope down. the 308 doesnt recoil much but repeated recoil over time can compound and cause problems. (TPS/Mark4/Badgers are the only rings in my opinion that do not need to be lapped).</p><p></p><p>Regarding trigger: while it doesnt effect inherent accruacy it does effect the shooters ability. Factory trigger pulls are an atrocity that only serve to satisfy liability lawyers. Most triggers in modern firearms can be adjusted without the need to pay a gunsmith. I'd suggest taking it down to 3 pounds +/- if you havent already. Accutrigger on the savage is good stuff.</p><p></p><p>Regarding shooting: I always load 5 shots for a particular powder charge and take the best 4. Make sure your brushing the barrel between each shot and even with that heavy barrel I'd give it 5-10 minutes between shots to cool down between shots.</p><p></p><p>Just some pointers. I have yet to find a modern rifle in good shape that can't get to shoot thru a dime all day long at 100 yards. But sometimes you just need to play with alot of bullets and alot of powders till you find that magic combination.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rheinhardt, post: 94950, member: 5142"] Regarding seating depth: there is an optimal depth. You need to seet the bullet such that your arent jamming the bullet into the lands and your not way away from the lands. I would suggest fireforming all your brass, that is to fire any old load in the gun to fit the brass to the dimensions to your chamber. Then I would take whatever bullet you want to try and seat it kind of long. Put the bullet into the chamber and close the bolt. Pull the bullet back out and look and see any marks on the copper jacket that are scratched from touching the lands. Mark it with a black sharpie, lower the seating depth ont he die a little bit and repeat. Repeat this process lowering the bullet only a 1/8-1/4 turn on the die screw. What you want to do is get the bullet so it is JUST off the lands, as close as you can get it without the bullet actually touching. This will ensure the bullet hits the lands perfect but the bullet isn't under any force from the lands allowing the bullet a mini head start so we dont generate excessive pressure at the get-go. Regarding powder charges: Many people simply start way too hot on the powder charge. I'd start at the very low end of the spectrum from your reloading manual and work up in half grain increments. The most accurate loads I develop are mostly at the low end of the pressure scale. if your using military brass for reloading, I would say take a grain or 2 off the lowest indicated powder charge and start from there as military brass tends to be thicker (less internal volume so you get higher pressures with less powder). Regarding bullet choice: some guns like certain bullets more then others. You maybe have to try lots of different bullets with lots of different powders before you find something that works. I once had a winchester model 70 in 308win that liked 110gr bullets and 180gr bullets and everything inbetween shot like crap. **** it I could figure it out, but thats what it liked. That 1 in 10 twist on that savage is really fast even for a 20" barrel. I'd try something like the 175gr-180gr matcking. Could be the lighter bullets are getting to much spin. Regarding barrel conditioning: if you havent put alot of ammuntion thrut he barrel yet, there are lots of methods out there to properly condition the barrel prior to testing handloads. Regarding mounts/optics: there is just so much that can go wrong here but the problem I see the most is people not lapping rings or using foam ring tape prior to clamping that scope down. the 308 doesnt recoil much but repeated recoil over time can compound and cause problems. (TPS/Mark4/Badgers are the only rings in my opinion that do not need to be lapped). Regarding trigger: while it doesnt effect inherent accruacy it does effect the shooters ability. Factory trigger pulls are an atrocity that only serve to satisfy liability lawyers. Most triggers in modern firearms can be adjusted without the need to pay a gunsmith. I'd suggest taking it down to 3 pounds +/- if you havent already. Accutrigger on the savage is good stuff. Regarding shooting: I always load 5 shots for a particular powder charge and take the best 4. Make sure your brushing the barrel between each shot and even with that heavy barrel I'd give it 5-10 minutes between shots to cool down between shots. Just some pointers. I have yet to find a modern rifle in good shape that can't get to shoot thru a dime all day long at 100 yards. But sometimes you just need to play with alot of bullets and alot of powders till you find that magic combination. [/QUOTE]
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Advice please on my finicky .308...
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