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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
advanced reloading techniques
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<blockquote data-quote="MontanaRifleman" data-source="post: 808666" data-attributes="member: 11717"><p>There are a lot of ways to skin a cat and that is particularly true of reloading. You can learn a lot right here by reading through various threads and doing some searches. Some weigh and sort brass and some don't. Some weigh and sort bullets and some don't. Some measure bullet bearing surface and sort and some don't. Some FL size and some neck size. Some turn necks and some don't. Some anneal and some don't.</p><p></p><p>Uniforming pockets and deburring flash holes is probably a good idea. I do it. I usually don't trim to length until after the first firing to avoid taking off excessive neck. I like them as long as possible. I do weigh my brass (after trimming) to put them in different lots. I.e., the 50 heaviest in one lot and the 50 lightest in another. I do the same with bullets.</p><p></p><p>I started out not turning necks and then started turning necks and now I'm back to not turning them. I started out FL sizing, then went to neck sizing and now back to FL sizing which seems to get me less runout. The trick is you must lube the inside of the neck so the expander comes up through with little resistance. When done right I can get less than .001 runout consistently. With neck sizing, I getting about .002-.004 runout. I work the lever slowly. If you want a good product, don't be in a hurry.</p><p></p><p>I highly recommend competition type seaters with VLD type seating plugs. Sometimes doing a partial seat to get it started, then turning the case about 180* will get them straighter. I find it this varies between bullet types. Having a runout gauge is very helpful. I like my Sinclair very much.</p><p></p><p>I use Lyman brass prep tools, flash hole deburrer, uniformer, chamfer, pocket cleaner. I had the RCBS and they sucked IMO, except the chamfer tool.</p><p></p><p>Hope that helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MontanaRifleman, post: 808666, member: 11717"] There are a lot of ways to skin a cat and that is particularly true of reloading. You can learn a lot right here by reading through various threads and doing some searches. Some weigh and sort brass and some don't. Some weigh and sort bullets and some don't. Some measure bullet bearing surface and sort and some don't. Some FL size and some neck size. Some turn necks and some don't. Some anneal and some don't. Uniforming pockets and deburring flash holes is probably a good idea. I do it. I usually don't trim to length until after the first firing to avoid taking off excessive neck. I like them as long as possible. I do weigh my brass (after trimming) to put them in different lots. I.e., the 50 heaviest in one lot and the 50 lightest in another. I do the same with bullets. I started out not turning necks and then started turning necks and now I'm back to not turning them. I started out FL sizing, then went to neck sizing and now back to FL sizing which seems to get me less runout. The trick is you must lube the inside of the neck so the expander comes up through with little resistance. When done right I can get less than .001 runout consistently. With neck sizing, I getting about .002-.004 runout. I work the lever slowly. If you want a good product, don't be in a hurry. I highly recommend competition type seaters with VLD type seating plugs. Sometimes doing a partial seat to get it started, then turning the case about 180* will get them straighter. I find it this varies between bullet types. Having a runout gauge is very helpful. I like my Sinclair very much. I use Lyman brass prep tools, flash hole deburrer, uniformer, chamfer, pocket cleaner. I had the RCBS and they sucked IMO, except the chamfer tool. Hope that helps. [/QUOTE]
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advanced reloading techniques
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