There is this sticky stuff called "Pro Gold" that I use a lot. It is a synthetic grease with copper. Kind of like anti seize, but it's far less messy!
Galling can and is an annoyance on these things unfortunately.
I would never bring a Nesika over here to the desert. not a SS one anyway.
Here is the TIP OF THE DAY regarding Nesika.
This is a bit of a bitch to explain, but I'll try. Hold the action/rifle in your hand and cycle the bolt. When the bolt is being closed there should be NO detectable increase in resistance to closing. It should be a smooth and linear action. IF at any time you feel something that remotely resembles a "detent" or if something is "overcoming" a resistance, STOP.
You need to send the action back to Nesika and tell them that the timing is off. RANDY G. is the guy to fix it. (if he still works there)
This is what is happening. As I stated in previous notes, the timing is different on the firing control for Nesikas. What is happening is that the lugs of the bolt are climbing the ramps just a like a Remington. The leading edges of the bolt are hitting just below the lug flats on the action. This little "bump" feeling is the proof.
Over time, and not very long I might add, the leading edge of the bolt will begin to develop a lump. A shiny spot on the lug surface of the bolt will appear. The material is being pushed around and when it gets to certain point, disaster will follow. The burr will roll into itself and tear the snot out of the bolt lugs AND the action (sometimes)
There is only one way to fix this when that happens. You take a skim off the bolt and the action. It will still work fine, but now your bolt handle is sitting farther back in the reciever cut out, now the gas check right in front of the shroud where the primary extraction is has become more exposed, you ruputure a case and you do not have the same level of protection as you did before.
If a Nesika "ticks" on closing, something is wrong and you should send it back to be fixed.
Here is why you should avoid doing it yourself:
The firing pins are screwed into the cocking piece and located by TWO 6-32 set screws (stacked on top of one another) When the timing is set, a small spot drill is used to index the firing pin for the set screw to bear into.
If your action "ticks" on closing you have to screw the firing pin out of the cocking piece a little. You have to make the cocking piece contact the sear LATER in terms of degrees of rotation on the bolt handle. the bolt lugs must be bearing on the receiver flats prior to the cocking piece purchasing the sear. If you just rotate and retighten, the set screws are now bearing on the threads of the firing pin. You'll run the risk of destroying the firing pin and the cocking piece if you try to take it apart because the threads are hammered to poop and will chew themselves to bits.
Nesika will replace the parts if you send it in and let them fix it. No worries.
Hope this helps someone.
Chad
