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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
A great investment.
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 618146" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>Just about every consumer with a home shop or garage mechanic who owns a portable drill can offhand sharpen drills to a degree that works in a layman's world.</p><p> </p><p>It's not a precision undertaking (like a shop environment), it's more about drilling a hole in something at that time... The average person won't realize the hole is actually dimensionally larger than the drill, because the drill is favoring one cutting edge over the other anyway and they have no way of gaging the internal diameter anyway. It's an 'I need a quarter inch hole for a bolt to pass through so I drill a quarter inch hole and the bolt passes through'. It's not about precision, it's about what works.</p><p> </p><p>My regimen is 'touching up' a drill every time I use one if I inspect the cutting edge (with a magnifying glass....<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> and the cutting edge appears chipped or otherwise degraded).</p><p> </p><p>Of course being frugal, I re-dress inserts too. I realize insert tooling (and brazed carbide tool bits) are supposed to be throwaway but it's so simple to re-dress them with a diamond hone or a green wheel (if the tool needs to be form ground).</p><p> </p><p>When I go to work (at my part-time job), the service techs there invariably have collected a pile of drills for me to resharpen because they never learned how to offhand sharpen them and I'm available.....<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p> </p><p>The other thing about a sharp drill is it imparts less strain on the drill press and most home shop drill presses are underpowered and have questionable spindle tolerances in the first place (as mentioned in a previous post....) The cutting action at any tool edge is shearing the material away, not really cutting in the sense of the word. That shearing action produces heat and takes power. The sharper the cutting edge is, the less heat produced and power required.</p><p> </p><p>Sharp (with proper negative relief and chip clearance) is always best.</p><p> </p><p>I re-grind all my end mills too.......</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 618146, member: 39764"] Just about every consumer with a home shop or garage mechanic who owns a portable drill can offhand sharpen drills to a degree that works in a layman's world. It's not a precision undertaking (like a shop environment), it's more about drilling a hole in something at that time... The average person won't realize the hole is actually dimensionally larger than the drill, because the drill is favoring one cutting edge over the other anyway and they have no way of gaging the internal diameter anyway. It's an 'I need a quarter inch hole for a bolt to pass through so I drill a quarter inch hole and the bolt passes through'. It's not about precision, it's about what works. My regimen is 'touching up' a drill every time I use one if I inspect the cutting edge (with a magnifying glass....:) and the cutting edge appears chipped or otherwise degraded). Of course being frugal, I re-dress inserts too. I realize insert tooling (and brazed carbide tool bits) are supposed to be throwaway but it's so simple to re-dress them with a diamond hone or a green wheel (if the tool needs to be form ground). When I go to work (at my part-time job), the service techs there invariably have collected a pile of drills for me to resharpen because they never learned how to offhand sharpen them and I'm available.....:D The other thing about a sharp drill is it imparts less strain on the drill press and most home shop drill presses are underpowered and have questionable spindle tolerances in the first place (as mentioned in a previous post....) The cutting action at any tool edge is shearing the material away, not really cutting in the sense of the word. That shearing action produces heat and takes power. The sharper the cutting edge is, the less heat produced and power required. Sharp (with proper negative relief and chip clearance) is always best. I re-grind all my end mills too....... [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
A great investment.
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