Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
A great investment.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 618136" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>The guy I worked for also had the cutter grinding area as well, and he bought four of those Drill Doctors. They never did work right! We had several of the others you mentioned (or name similar). Never had to do any work on them, and they had a couple guys that took care of most of the equipment for them as well as the tool room.</p><p> </p><p>Honestly I was nothing to ever write home about when it came to sharpening twist drills. They'd cut Ok, but never had the precision I wanted out of them. But I did master the art of getting the proper reliefe and the differences between cast iron and something like aluminum. Yet I've watch my dad do it almost with his eyes closed! Two perfectly matched chip strings everytime. The thing about buying coated drills to remember is that you have to have the recoated everytime you sharpen them. For 97% of the uses I see little advantage, and even then a standard cobalt drill will get the job done. In otherwords save your money! But if your drill a lot of holes in pretreat steel the coated ones really show up well. You might also want to add Vermont into the drill brands (I guess they're still good). We used mostly the brands you spoke of unless it was an oddball or a core drill (we bought a lot of core drills). Also there is a drill grind that 97% of the folks cannot resharpen. It's called a crank shaft grind. Looking at it, it looks like the others, but is different. Avoid those unless you are maybe running a machine shop. These drills will really handle high loads and really cut well.</p><p> </p><p>I used to have flame cut fixture bases made outside by an outfit that claimed they'd be .03" or better. Most were in the .015" range and fairly smooth on the outsides. (some of these were four foot by six foot with angles and radiuses in them). Before I was lucky to get an eigth inch in accuracey, and had to recut all the outside deminsions. Then we bought a precision flame cutting machine that was programable, and usually cut within the +/- .01" range. Anything close we did with the water jet. I learned fast the the base of a fixture is the foundation for machining good parts, and if you start out right the rest follows suit. And this is one reason why I miss the old big and slow planers!</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 618136, member: 25383"] The guy I worked for also had the cutter grinding area as well, and he bought four of those Drill Doctors. They never did work right! We had several of the others you mentioned (or name similar). Never had to do any work on them, and they had a couple guys that took care of most of the equipment for them as well as the tool room. Honestly I was nothing to ever write home about when it came to sharpening twist drills. They'd cut Ok, but never had the precision I wanted out of them. But I did master the art of getting the proper reliefe and the differences between cast iron and something like aluminum. Yet I've watch my dad do it almost with his eyes closed! Two perfectly matched chip strings everytime. The thing about buying coated drills to remember is that you have to have the recoated everytime you sharpen them. For 97% of the uses I see little advantage, and even then a standard cobalt drill will get the job done. In otherwords save your money! But if your drill a lot of holes in pretreat steel the coated ones really show up well. You might also want to add Vermont into the drill brands (I guess they're still good). We used mostly the brands you spoke of unless it was an oddball or a core drill (we bought a lot of core drills). Also there is a drill grind that 97% of the folks cannot resharpen. It's called a crank shaft grind. Looking at it, it looks like the others, but is different. Avoid those unless you are maybe running a machine shop. These drills will really handle high loads and really cut well. I used to have flame cut fixture bases made outside by an outfit that claimed they'd be .03" or better. Most were in the .015" range and fairly smooth on the outsides. (some of these were four foot by six foot with angles and radiuses in them). Before I was lucky to get an eigth inch in accuracey, and had to recut all the outside deminsions. Then we bought a precision flame cutting machine that was programable, and usually cut within the +/- .01" range. Anything close we did with the water jet. I learned fast the the base of a fixture is the foundation for machining good parts, and if you start out right the rest follows suit. And this is one reason why I miss the old big and slow planers! gary [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
A great investment.
Top