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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
A great investment.
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 617986" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>Gary and I are getting off on a tangent and I apologize for the both of us. </p><p> </p><p>I just happen to own a short run machine and fabrication shop and I like talking about machinery, especially old iron because old iron was built, unlike stuff today (for the most part).....</p><p> </p><p>My suggestion on twist drill bits (and I believe Gary will agree with me on this...)</p><p> </p><p>Learn how to offhand sharpen your own bits and forget the drill sharpening machines. It's not that hard to master and all it takes is a 6" bench grinder with a coarse and fine wheel for HHS or M42 Cobalt. Besides you can learn to relieve the webs and that makes drilling with larger bits so much easier....</p><p></p><p>My old eyes will still allow me to resharpen down to 1/8" (with my headgear magnifiers of course)......<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p> </p><p>All those drill sharpeners (Drill Doctor Included) are little more than expensive junk.</p><p> </p><p>The Drill Doctor is made by Darex and Darex makes some fine drill sharpeners for shop use but they cost thousands. They make very accurate cutter grinders too but I'm straying from the OP's post again.</p><p> </p><p>Anyway, start off with good drills, not cheapo Harbor Fright stuff. Cleveland Twist or Chicago Latrobe, preferrably Cleveland Twist. Get a set of Fractional and Wire Size in bright finish. That fancy gold (Titanium Nitride) coating is of little use in casual drilling anyway....</p><p> </p><p>Good drills cost good money, like anything, but they will last and once you learn to resharpen them........ will last a long time because everytiime you use a drill, you'll 'touch it up' to keep it cutting well. </p><p> </p><p>Always use lubricant when drilling ferrous (steel). Keeps the cutting edge cool and sharp longer We could get into a discussion about lubricants but it's suffice to say anything resembling oil will do for a home shop.</p><p> </p><p>You'll quickly develop a sense of pride in being able to resharpen your own drills. Even today I always have people watch and ask me how it's done. I say it's all in your wrist.... and it is. Just takes practice, like shooting. You don't get good if you don't shoot and often.</p><p> </p><p>Gary... The Servoshift is off limits to everyone but me..... In my shop, don't ask because the answer is no.</p><p> </p><p>Mechanized Plasma will hold 0.005. That's good enough for pre machined blanks. Besides I already a large HyperTherm with the driver ports built in. Just need the table....</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 617986, member: 39764"] Gary and I are getting off on a tangent and I apologize for the both of us. I just happen to own a short run machine and fabrication shop and I like talking about machinery, especially old iron because old iron was built, unlike stuff today (for the most part)..... My suggestion on twist drill bits (and I believe Gary will agree with me on this...) Learn how to offhand sharpen your own bits and forget the drill sharpening machines. It's not that hard to master and all it takes is a 6" bench grinder with a coarse and fine wheel for HHS or M42 Cobalt. Besides you can learn to relieve the webs and that makes drilling with larger bits so much easier.... My old eyes will still allow me to resharpen down to 1/8" (with my headgear magnifiers of course)......:D All those drill sharpeners (Drill Doctor Included) are little more than expensive junk. The Drill Doctor is made by Darex and Darex makes some fine drill sharpeners for shop use but they cost thousands. They make very accurate cutter grinders too but I'm straying from the OP's post again. Anyway, start off with good drills, not cheapo Harbor Fright stuff. Cleveland Twist or Chicago Latrobe, preferrably Cleveland Twist. Get a set of Fractional and Wire Size in bright finish. That fancy gold (Titanium Nitride) coating is of little use in casual drilling anyway.... Good drills cost good money, like anything, but they will last and once you learn to resharpen them........ will last a long time because everytiime you use a drill, you'll 'touch it up' to keep it cutting well. Always use lubricant when drilling ferrous (steel). Keeps the cutting edge cool and sharp longer We could get into a discussion about lubricants but it's suffice to say anything resembling oil will do for a home shop. You'll quickly develop a sense of pride in being able to resharpen your own drills. Even today I always have people watch and ask me how it's done. I say it's all in your wrist.... and it is. Just takes practice, like shooting. You don't get good if you don't shoot and often. Gary... The Servoshift is off limits to everyone but me..... In my shop, don't ask because the answer is no. Mechanized Plasma will hold 0.005. That's good enough for pre machined blanks. Besides I already a large HyperTherm with the driver ports built in. Just need the table.... [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
A great investment.
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