98 Mauser firing pin

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by eric2381, Apr 24, 2010.

  1. eric2381

    eric2381 Well-Known Member

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    Feb 27, 2009
    Hello everybody,

    This winter I picked up a Shultz and Larsen 98 Mauser. It's stamped Otterup on the barrel and chambered for 6.5x55. 28" heavy profile barrel, and it originally had match irons on it. I'm hoping it's sort of a diamond in the rough. Anyways, it's an interesting rifle, and I want to do some shooting with it.

    I made up some loads for it with 130gr. Berger VLD, RL19, CCI200BR, and Norma brass. I took it to the range to try it out this morning, and it had failures to fire. It wasn't hitting the primer hard enough. The same rounds fired just fine through my 96 Mauser 6.5x55.

    I shot the other rifles I had with me and came home and pulled the bolt apart to clean it and inspect it. Everything looked well, except the firing pin only protruded from the bolt face around 0.035". I did some research and found this-

    http://carteach0.blogspot.com/2009/01/mauser-firing-pin-protrusion-solving.html

    I thought I'd try it, but when I was disassembling the bolt, I broke the damn firing pin off. I know, being rammy doesn't work with gunsmithing. I need a new firing pin for this rifle now.

    Has anybody tried this item?-

    http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=366309

    Figure if I'm going to replace, might as well upgrade. I promise not to break it too, if it all works out.

    Thanks, Eric
     
  2. specweldtom

    specweldtom Well-Known Member

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    Eric, the Carteach link is very well done, but I do not agree with the method for cutting back the cocking piece / firing pin sear. Removing 25 to 30 mils off the face of the cocking piece with a file wouldn't get the area directly under the cocking ram. It also wouldn't give you a perfectly flat, perpendicular face to strike the back of the shroud. (And would take forever. The cocking piece is very hard). To be done right I think you need to get the piece to a lathe (or milling machine) and cut the face with a carbide end mill. Now you will get it true, flat, and exactly the depth you want.

    On edit: I JUST SNAPPED THAT THIS PIN IS BROKEN ANYWAY, SO YOU NEED A NEW PIN ANYHOW. DON'T CUT ON ANYTHING UNTIL YOU GET A PIN AND TRY IT.
    SORRY, TOM

    I'm not familiar with the Turks, but some of the military, and commercial standard length firing pins don't take all of the cocking pieces, and won't let them rotate onto the pin. You need to match them up. The Tubb link might work, but military Mauser firing pins can still be found, maybe Numrich, Brownell's, or sometimes at gun shows. Firing pins should have a spherical tip, not the flattened tip seen in the Carteach link. Also watch out for Yugo firing pins, they are about 3/16" or so shorter than a std Mauser. A good firing pin will protrude closer to .062" than .055". Let down so that it protrudes from the bolt face, it will actually look too long, but can be measured accurately with a depth mike.

    Great shooting old rifle worth spending a few $$$ on.

    Good luck, Tom
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2010

  3. coyotezapper

    coyotezapper Well-Known Member

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    Sep 26, 2009
    I have the Tubb speedlock FP on all of my 98's. Highly recommended.
     
  4. eric2381

    eric2381 Well-Known Member

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