7mm RUM Load data

jrc36

Active Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
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30
Location
Yazoo City, Mississippi
I've recently purchased a rem 700 with 28" Hart barrel chambered for 7mm RUM. Does anyone have any suggestions on bullet/powder/primer combinations and seating depths etc, etc that give maximum velocity and still maintain accuracy. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
 
Take a look at Hornady, Accurate powders manuals for a good starting point. I like RL 25 for bullets up to 150 gr. I use the manuals as reference and if I want to use a different component such as a different bullet but same wt. I go back to starting loads and work up. Thats because of the scarcity of data. I shoot a factory tubed 700 in 7Rum and use rem case, fed 215M, a bunch of RL25, 150 partition for 3450-3475 fps verified by chrono. accurate! I will admit that I am over what manuals would say is max load but everything operates well and the cases last about 4-5 reloads. A chrono will be of upmost importance in knowing where you are velocity wise. There are other sources of data such as Reloaders nest, and Steves' Pages here on the internet. Beware and double check with reference to a manual.
 
Anyone out there still loading the 7mm RUM? I have a REM 700 classic 26 in b

I wanted the STW trying to out do my 7 mm rem mag and got this one when it came out instead and have been loading it since for hunting whitetail. I see these posts are from 2006. Is anyone still out there messin with this?

I don't shoot allot compared to some but have a 100 + rounds I have reloaded a couple times.

I have had lots of bad accuracy with some of the best recommended rounds and really have felt like going back to the 7 mm rem mag. When I first got the rifle all I could find on the shelf around here was Sierra 160 grain hollow point bullets and some H1000, still haven't out done that round. I got the highly recommended 160 grain Nozzler partitions and retumbo powder with rem 9 ½ primers and key holed with those at 50 yards, couldn't believe it.

I had a "Q" muzzle break on my rifle and I think it caused me some problems. I have it off screwed off now with the mounting ring still there and am starting over with all my old data. In and out of town and hunting with it with the rounds I have got by but missed some long range deer and barely got some that were closer. Of course I trim each case and seat each bullet the same and use a factory crimp die. I never really know whats going to happen but I shot it before the hunt last time with some 150 grain sirocco and hit on the money one shot and left it at that for huntin in the woods around here.


After the hunting season I would really like to play with this more. I would like to have 175 and 150 grain doing well anyway. Playing with the lighter bullets would be fun but. I just want to get it right and save the barrel from what I read.

Have read everything from only load brass twice because of the pressures to annulling the case necks. I have split cases to spot check for stretching at the head and choose to reload them again as I have seen no problems. Did have one case kind of buckle towards the end on the shoulder like it was sucked in and collapse in a couple spots.

I use loads I have found on line and modified with other projectiles of the same weight and working up. I am about to get back into this round and try and find a couple of good bullets. I want to buy a hundred more brass but haven't found any in stock.

I see here some have used the brass 4 and 5 times. If you're still out there can you comment on what you have found to be the stopping point of using the brass?

Also how many shots have folks been getting before they notice accuracy problem because of barrel wear?

Any to date pointers at all on this round would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Give US 869 a try with the 175 SMK's loaded .10-.015 off of the lands to start with.
Start low and work up as always. Then you can tweak the seating depth for best accuracy.
I've had great success with this powder.
I use fed 215 primers but alot of folks also have good results with the cci-250's
I would also use the muzzle break- unless of course you think it was installed in an improper manner.
 
Give US 869 a try with the 175 SMK's loaded .10-.015 off of the lands to start with.
Start low and work up as always. Then you can tweak the seating depth for best accuracy.
I've had great success with this powder.
I use fed 215 primers but alot of folks also have good results with the cci-250's
I would also use the muzzle break- unless of course you think it was installed in an improper manner.

Thanks for your inputs. I have felt like the lone ranger since I have had this rifle. I just bought a can of acurate 8700 to try. I will look for this US 869 as well as the175. I have some 175 sieras. Where did you get the load data fo rthe 869?
I will play with the primers some more if I can find them.

The muzzle break, now, I had the mercery stick put in the stock of a 300 whetherby mag and loved the results. So when I went back to have one put in the ultra mag they had this new thing called the Q. They sold me on it so I had both put on, the Q was around 300 bucks instaled. with that and the mercery stick you can let a 10 year old shoot it! thing is after loading some rounds they key holed. I blaimed it on the loads and went back to the origanal loads I had made and continued hunting. They seemed OK. After season I could hear a rattle when I jared the rifle. It was the Q. I couldnt find the gun smith that put it on and he apears to have gone under. I took it to another gun smith who had no info on the Q. The mounting of the Q seems to be fine. If I screw it all the way down it is quiet but not properly adjusted. So I just screwed it off. It is adjustable supposidly to help tighten a group with different bullets. Between that and reloading, what a headace. For the money, the company should back it up. I think it was installed right but wore out fast.

any info on the Q would be apreciated. I have left the mount on just in case and just shoot with it screwed off for now.

Also more inputs on the ULTRA Brass inspection would be nice.

Thanks for all inputs
 
Did have one case kind of buckle towards the end on the shoulder like it was sucked in and collapse in a couple spots.

this is probably from too much lube during sizing. Disassemble and clean your dies. Go easy on the lube.


PS.

This happened to me once when I bought hornady oneshot gun lube (black label) thinking it was one shot CASE LUBE (red label). Right away the dies got loaded up with lube and caused hydraulic dents on the shoulders, and one case got stuck in the die. Stay away from the black label its not case lube.
 
Thanks to you all for your inputs and I may very well send you a PM for that load Doug when I get around to it.

Loader loft, I am using the one shot but I am sure its the correct I have always used. I usually read the can to refresh my memory as I always feel I over spray trying to get it all. I have had a couple cases stuck in dies.

The damage I explained, I found after shooting the round and none others did it? It never slowed me down and never happened again. Maybe it was from not wiping off the case after loading. Anymore inputs on that always welcome. Thanks

I am about to load this brass for the 3rd time and watch it and see how it goes.

Anyone annulled any of this brass and when should I? I see no problem right now, am I missing something?

Still trying to get up with Que on the muzzle break not that I want to use it but whoever ends up with this gun someday after I am gone might want to screw it back on since its paid for. Its to much stress for me personally not only trying to find the perfect light and heavy load but then trying to tune that particular round in with the que and all before I ware the barrel out. I am just gona set this up for long range heavy shots and when I don't think I cant get it with whatever I have in my hand, the 7rem mag or 06, then I will grin and pull it out of my hat somehow! Last two big bucks I seen over the years were well out there and I wasn't ready. I missed with it and said to myself, you suck! I would have been better off with my other guns aiming hi. I hope to master this thing shortly. Thanks for your inputs

I will always be watching this site if you guys learn anything I should know, I appreciate your knowledge and experience.

I decided the place I am feeling inside the cut away brass is where it gets thicker towards the web about 1/2 inch before the web coming from the mouth of the case. So with that I have decided to safely reload, but I am listening.

Thanks to all

Carl
 
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