7mm Build advice

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by losthelegend, Feb 18, 2013.

  1. losthelegend

    losthelegend Well-Known Member

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    I currently have a Rem 700 CDL in a 7mm and I am looking at doing a build in the same caliber. I am wanting to do the build in steps. I would like to have the action trued and blueprinted and recoil lug and barrel installed first. Then when funds become available have it cerakoted, purchase an after market trigger and lastly purchase a synthetic stock. I do not want to shoot the rifle until the build is totally complete. This project is just a side project that I really dont want to dump the total amount for right away.

    My question is do you think that this process is feasable or a total waste of time for myself and the gunsmith? Where would your first step be, second and third etc.? What twist for the 7mm? Barrel Length?

    My goal is to eventually have a lightweight gun to pack in for elk and mule deer. I would like the barrel to have flutes and a sporter type barrel and am leaning towards a B&C medalist stock with a timney trigger.

    Any constructive advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance for all of your suggestions!
     
  2. shawnb

    shawnb Well-Known Member

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    A light weight pack gun a would like maybe a 24-26" #4-5. My rifle weighs 10.5lbs with a 26" #6 in a mcmillan stock and luepy scope.

    Not sure what bullet you wanna shoot but for my next barrel ill be going with a #5 or light palma fluted to 28" to take advantage of slow powders for the 180 vld.

    I dont think its a waste of time. I imagine lots of people just do build step by step. And if your not going to shoot till its done you could also stock pile everything and build when you have everything.
     

  3. brentc

    brentc Well-Known Member

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    For a 7mm RM I'd go with a #5 or #6 sporter contour finished at 28" with a 1 in 9" twist. I'd also do a custom chamber throated long for a 180 Berger so you could push them at 3000+ fps without excess pressure. A fluted #6 contour will put you in at around 11 lbs with optics and a #5 would be in the 9.5-10.0 lb range depending on how you have it set up with stock and optics.
     
  4. crazyhorse

    crazyhorse Well-Known Member

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    I'm currently doing this very same build! Much like you funds are limiting my progress. I sent my 7mm RM Sendero to Benchmark Barrels back in January. They are cleaning up the action, rebarreling in a fluted 26" Sendero contour, and installing a new recoil lug. I went with Benchmark mainly because of great reviews here as well as other sites, and the fact that they were very competitive in price and had the best lead time.
    I'm going to have it cerakoted at a later date when the funds recover. After that I'm constantly watching the classified's here while saving up for a Manners MCS T. The wife bought me a Huskemaw for Christmas and its killing me to look at it on my desk every day!! I hope to be shooting around mid April.
     
  5. crazyhorse

    crazyhorse Well-Known Member

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    Oh, I forgot to mention I went with the 1:9" twist at the reccommendation of the guys at benchmark. It will handle the 168 Bergers and the Barnes 145 LRX that I love to hunt with.
     
  6. WildRose

    WildRose Well-Known Member

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    The problem with that is that it's a 9-10lbs finished rifle and then you add the weight of scope and mounts/rings.

    He's looking for a light weight pack rifle so we're at least a couple of pounds out of spec here for his needs.
     
  7. WildRose

    WildRose Well-Known Member

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    1:9 will be adequate for any of the 7mm's I know of but 1:8.5 would give you some additional spin for bullets that may come out in the future.

    A light varmint contour that finishes at around .725 at 26" and is fluted would give you good performance and meet your weight goals.

    I'd step up to the 7mm STW while you are doing it for the added punch particularly with the 160-heavier class bullets for LR shooting.

    You can shave a good bit more weight by saving a few extra bucks and going to one of the McMillian mountain rifle type hunting stocks or the new stocks from Precision Stock Works in New Braunfels Texas (their design made by McMillian for them.

    Keeping weight to a minimum and performance to a maximum is tough.

    You can get the action trued and the barrel installed for 800-1000.00 if you just send it to Brux, Krieger, or any of several other premium barrel makers and use the savings to go up in quality and down in weight in the stock.
     
  8. migolito

    migolito Member

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    Feb 16, 2013
    I am also doing almost the same thing. I sent my Howa to Mcgowen and am having it re barreled 280AI in a Shilen #2 1:9 twist 24", squared/lapped. I already have a Timney trigger and Medalist. It wasn't designed to be a lite weight though and should come in around 8.5 w/scope. This action is blued and the barrel is CM, so, I'm going to Cerakote it myself (I'll let ya know how that goes :)

    For a lite-weight rifle: I'm rebarreling my Rem m 7 and keeping it 7mm-08. Barrel will be Shilen #1 in 24 CM 1:9. (I'm building this riffle specifically for the Accubond 150 LR). I'm going to add a Timney, and Kevlar 24oz stock or go all out on the 12oz Stock (?). I'm going to convert it to an ADL to loose the bottom medal or find an aluminum replacement. The Bases and rings are already Aluminum. I 'm still deciding on glass. I'm also going to Cerakote it.

    My steps: 1. What ya going to shoot with it? Targets, coyotes, deer elk. 2. Choose the caliber. 3. Choose the bullet ie. Heavy or light 4. Choose the twist (talk with whoever is rebarreling it) 5. Choose the weight of rifle and barrel length(stand hunting you can use a heavy/long rifle, stalking you can use a medium rifle, back packing=light). 6. Send the barreled action to your gunsmith (have him square everything and lap the lugs, flute if your going to, etc) 7. Choose the stock-I bed my own...its easy and there's plenty of videos) 8. Choose rings/bases, bottom medal, scope. 8. Cerakote or bead blast or blue, etc. Again, I'm going to try to Cerakote it myself.

    Personally, I like going in steps and feeling the changes as it progresses. No need to add change rings/base at first, or even change the scope or stock initially.

    I don't anticipate getting the Howa back until June and I haven't even sent the Rem in yet. So, I guess I'm saying there isn't a thing wrong with doing it a step at a time and adding stuff as you go. Go for it! and keep us posted.
     
  9. SPR123

    SPR123 Member

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    I just finished a 7mmLRM for a Nebraska and Wyoming Whitetail/Mule Deer/ Elk gun. Got another one in the works for my buddy that lives in Nebraska. The gun can be built in steps like you want, but the action work, bolt and barrel should be one step. Then you can select a stock, trigger etc.. as the funds are available. Very sweet shooting rifle! Len posted a range report for his 7mmLRM at this link:

    http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f19/lens-new-7-lrm-first-day-range-99633/

    I recommend this caliber to any of my customers that are looking for a long range deer/elk rifle. Mine has a 8 twist barrel to shoot the 195 Bergers when they are available.
     
  10. losthelegend

    losthelegend Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all of the responses! I think that I am on the right track! I will begin doing some research on gunsmiths and some caliber research! Thanks again for all of your responses.