7mm/300 wsm or 7mm SAUM?

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by pyroducksx3, Apr 28, 2010.

  1. 7mm SAUM

    166 vote(s)
    37.6%
  2. 7mm/300 WSM

    115 vote(s)
    26.1%
  3. 7mm WSM

    160 vote(s)
    36.3%
  1. pyroducksx3

    pyroducksx3 Well-Known Member

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    I am having my 300 wsm tikka t3 rebarreled and am undecided between the 7mm/300 wsm and the 7mm SAUM. I think both have strenghts and weakness. I will be hunting in the mountains of eastern washington for mule deer and shots can be long est 700+, though I'm not ready for shots that long yet. SO primary use of gun will be mule deer eastern wa. secondly will be black bear hunting in western wa, shots typically much closer as the forests are heavy, and third occasional elk hunt eastern wa, typically bow hunt for elk though. I'm looking to change rounds because I would prefer less recoil so I can enjoy practicing shooting more and improve the ballistics of the 7mm.

    reasons for the 7mm saum. It comes within 100 fps of the 7mm/300 wsm but with 8-10% less power. If anything should happen to pet load while on trip although hard to find factory ammo available. With the 8-10% less powder also comes less recoil.

    reasons for the 7/300 wsm able to push the bullet alittle faster but at the cost of more reciol.

    The reason for no factory 7 wsm is because case forming would be more difficult when trying to use high quality brass from norma or nosler (would require fire forming), also the neck is shorter than the 7/300 wsm.

    This will on a long action so I can seat the bullet out farther than if it were limited to a short action. Thanks for any input.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2010
  2. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

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    I vote for the 7wsm. It has the most fps.

    You'll not likely see the difference the neck length makes in a hunting rifle.

    With a decent sized barrel you probably won't tell the difference in recoil either. Mine is a 28" varmint taper and it kicks like a pussycat.

    Forming Norma brass is easy too. Using 300wsm all you have to do is neck down leaving a false shoulder and shoot. I've gotten great accuracy in my fireform loads.
     

  3. horsefor4

    horsefor4 Well-Known Member

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    +1 on the 7wsm brass is no big deal shoots great.
     
  4. loaders_loft

    loaders_loft Well-Known Member

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    If you're used to shooting the 300 wsm in a T3 then the 7wsm will be a relief for you. while rebarreling get a real nice decelerator pad, that makes a big difference. I'm currently getting ready to fireform the norma 300 wsm brass, just sorted 100 pieces into 2 boxes of 45 within 1 grain, plus about 5 foulers per box. Still debating whether to shoot bullets or cream of wheat. I figure the cream of wheat is no big loss; I can always fireform again with bullets, but I need to find some fast powder locally.

    You mentioned having your T-3 rebarreled from 300 wsm, but then you said you're using a long action to seat bullets out longer. My experience has been the magazine on the T3 limits seating depth on the wsm cartridge. Whats the secret here?
     
  5. trueblue

    trueblue Well-Known Member

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    There is some good reading on the 7's on 6mm Br website. Might want to check it out.
    I would go with the 7 RSAUM. Basically, identical to the 7 WSM with a long neck and slightly less powder. Good brass to with Norma 300 SAUM necked down, or just use Remington.
    Can't go wrong with either choice thou.
     
  6. pyroducksx3

    pyroducksx3 Well-Known Member

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    Loaders loft I havent put in practice yet but I dont see why it wont work. The T-3 is a long action no matter what caliber. So that magazine for it in the short actions just has more plastic on the back of it. You should be able to grind that plastic down to allow a longer cartridge length in your short action calibers.
     
  7. Aldon

    Aldon Well-Known Member

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    What he said!
     
  8. loaders_loft

    loaders_loft Well-Known Member

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    If I was you, I'd run that experiment sooner than later. You might have trouble with the rounds tilting in the magazine. Also double check the clearance of the bolt when resting against the bolt stop - will it pick up a round any further back?

    Maybe you should go with 7mm rsum which is a bit shorter, and/or have it throated short to accomodate deep seated bullets.
     
  9. 21buck

    21buck Well-Known Member

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    You probably have saved the 300 wsm brass. Basically, buy the fl die for the 7mm/300 and you are ready to go. I recommend a 7mm/300 wsm. The recoil and noise is not bad. It is an accurate round that allows a variety of powders and bullet weights. Personnaly, I use the 130 gr Barnes x bullet with fantastic results.

    Good Luck
     
  10. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    +1
    But I would keep the 7 WSM head stamp on my brass . (Less chance of a screw up).

    J E CUSTOM
     
  11. geargrinder

    geargrinder Well-Known Member

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    I'll gladly use 7 WSM brass. As soon as Norma or Lapua makes some.:D
     
  12. loaders_loft

    loaders_loft Well-Known Member

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    neck turning is a pain in the ***. I did half dozen a few nights ago and I've been dreading going back to it since...
     
  13. loaders_loft

    loaders_loft Well-Known Member

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    Finally finished neck turning 50 pcs and sized them with a false shoulder. I think the worst part about neck turning is the shell holder that comes with the forster HOT neck turning tool It has a terrible screw that just doesn't clamp down. I resorted to doubling up my T-shirt as a way to get a good grip on the silly yellow knob... I have 50 more pieces of weight sorted and 300wsm fl sized brass awaiting neck turning; at this point I think I'll set them aside until my fingers heal up...:)
     
  14. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    I use channel locks on my silly little yellow knob. The worst part is that you can barely fit a WSM casing in the holder.

    Tank