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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
338 RUM or 338 Lapua
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<blockquote data-quote="BountyHunter" data-source="post: 283952" data-attributes="member: 12"><p>JE </p><p> </p><p>I never said you had to have a $5K rifle, but the hard facts are that $5k rlfles they are being touted and sold on this site routinely. You and I both know that almost any custom action gun will cost $3k too. Go to snipers hide and look at the $3500 GAP guns. More people are buying those than you obviously realize.</p><p> </p><p>You are correct most people would be best suited buying a used LR gun or just adding a barrel and stock until they can get good enough to want/need. However, most will not want to do that and jump into the high dollar setups. </p><p> </p><p>Yes, of course, you can buy a ton of remchester, sort hell out of it, and come up with good brass to shoot particularily if your goal is only 1/2 MOA. You sure as heck will not do it dumping the box out and trying to tweak it, just too much variance and soft case heads for it to last. So if your time is worth nothing and you can sell the cull brass to someone else go ahead. </p><p> </p><p>Lapua only costs a little more than other brass and does not have those issues, lasts 4x as long which means 4x less brass prep. The biggest disparity in pricing of lapua and others is solely the 338 Lapua at $2 (not $3-4 at where you buy it) compared to the 300 RUM at $.80. But lets play the math, If I get 24 reloadings compared to 6 I am money ahead, not counting my brass prep time. My time is too valuable to spend sorting rem-chester when I can take Lapua and go to loading.</p><p> </p><p>I recently could not get Lapua 6mm BR brass for my 6mm BRDX so used Norma. Turned the necks, primer pockets, necked up, necked down to form false shoulder fireformed using my same fireforming load for the Lapua brass. Fired them and went back to reload the cases and discovered that my standard Lapua load blew out the primer pockets first time on Norma cases and all my primers fell out when I went to put them in. Just where was my cost savings here?</p><p> </p><p>Now to the case head issue and 50 years of seeing it happen. In spite of 50 years watching it happen, the fact still remains that case head separation is from excess headspace or poor die adjustment, and 200 years experience is not going to alter those facts. IMO it is an injustice to novice shooters plus and inherently unsafe practice to say just throw the brass away after 4 firings rather than learn to ID and fix the problem. The only way you can ruin a hunt, match or rifle is to not know you have excess headspace or how to properly adjust FL size dies.</p><p> </p><p>In the 1k BR game, we have matches where literally thousands of dollars of prizes are on the table. If anyone remotely thought brass was going to just separate after 4 firings people would not be using brass 20x, but we know that is not going to happen.</p><p> </p><p>Anyway, two different perspectives and keep sending em down range in the black!</p><p> </p><p>BH</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BountyHunter, post: 283952, member: 12"] JE I never said you had to have a $5K rifle, but the hard facts are that $5k rlfles they are being touted and sold on this site routinely. You and I both know that almost any custom action gun will cost $3k too. Go to snipers hide and look at the $3500 GAP guns. More people are buying those than you obviously realize. You are correct most people would be best suited buying a used LR gun or just adding a barrel and stock until they can get good enough to want/need. However, most will not want to do that and jump into the high dollar setups. Yes, of course, you can buy a ton of remchester, sort hell out of it, and come up with good brass to shoot particularily if your goal is only 1/2 MOA. You sure as heck will not do it dumping the box out and trying to tweak it, just too much variance and soft case heads for it to last. So if your time is worth nothing and you can sell the cull brass to someone else go ahead. Lapua only costs a little more than other brass and does not have those issues, lasts 4x as long which means 4x less brass prep. The biggest disparity in pricing of lapua and others is solely the 338 Lapua at $2 (not $3-4 at where you buy it) compared to the 300 RUM at $.80. But lets play the math, If I get 24 reloadings compared to 6 I am money ahead, not counting my brass prep time. My time is too valuable to spend sorting rem-chester when I can take Lapua and go to loading. I recently could not get Lapua 6mm BR brass for my 6mm BRDX so used Norma. Turned the necks, primer pockets, necked up, necked down to form false shoulder fireformed using my same fireforming load for the Lapua brass. Fired them and went back to reload the cases and discovered that my standard Lapua load blew out the primer pockets first time on Norma cases and all my primers fell out when I went to put them in. Just where was my cost savings here? Now to the case head issue and 50 years of seeing it happen. In spite of 50 years watching it happen, the fact still remains that case head separation is from excess headspace or poor die adjustment, and 200 years experience is not going to alter those facts. IMO it is an injustice to novice shooters plus and inherently unsafe practice to say just throw the brass away after 4 firings rather than learn to ID and fix the problem. The only way you can ruin a hunt, match or rifle is to not know you have excess headspace or how to properly adjust FL size dies. In the 1k BR game, we have matches where literally thousands of dollars of prizes are on the table. If anyone remotely thought brass was going to just separate after 4 firings people would not be using brass 20x, but we know that is not going to happen. Anyway, two different perspectives and keep sending em down range in the black! BH [/QUOTE]
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338 RUM or 338 Lapua
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