Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
338 Edge goes from 0.4 MOA to 2.0 MOA with same load?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Fiftydriver" data-source="post: 370240" data-attributes="member: 10"><p>You are seeing the joys of working with any factory receiver. They are all finished by hand. By that I mean that they are polished on a buffing wheel by hand and as such its very common to see receivers be wildly different from one to another as far as scope rail fit. Once you figure all the machining and time involved in getting a Rem 700 completely up and running for building a precision rifle on, a custom receiver looks alot more attractive in the end and in most cases not all that more expensive if any more at all.</p><p> </p><p>M.E. right, if you bed the rail base, you will need to lap the rings again. If you lapped on them alot, and you do it again, make sure that you have enough clamping force left on the rings, if not, you can have the bottom side of the top rings milled to take 20 thou off for more clamping action. With a heavy scope this is critical to have proper clamping power.</p><p> </p><p>With the bedding, if you have soft spots anywhere in the bedding, I would rebed the stock simply because if there is one soft spot, there WILL be others. Did you pillar bed the stock or just skim bed it?</p><p> </p><p>On the muzzle brake crown. As long as this does not touch the bullet as it passes through the brake, it will not effect accuracy in any way. I have tested this extensively to prove it and had SEVERELY marked up muzzle brakes shoot every bit as well as a perfectly clean crown on the muzzle brake. Its the crown on the actual barrel muzzle that is critical and MUST be free of any burr visiable or not.</p><p> </p><p>Back to the rail base issue. I would recommend going away from a one piece base in your situation to be honest. Obviously your receiver is dramatically out of spec if your getting 20 thou in flex when mounting the scope. I would bed a two piece NF set of bases, then install your rings, lap then to 100% contact and then mount your scope. This will eliminate any possible flex or stress to the receiver and just as important to the scope. Bedding a one piece base will also work but bedding compound is no where near as strong as steel and over time, I have seen some bedded rails start to have the bedding break down over time and cause problems. Generally this only occurs in severe cases where there is alot of bedding compound under the rail, for instance where the rear bridge is completely supported by bedding compound only.</p><p> </p><p>I still prefer steel to steel contact with bedding compound filling in around the contact points. A base completely supported by bedding compound just makes me nervous.</p><p> </p><p>Hope you get things figured out.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fiftydriver, post: 370240, member: 10"] You are seeing the joys of working with any factory receiver. They are all finished by hand. By that I mean that they are polished on a buffing wheel by hand and as such its very common to see receivers be wildly different from one to another as far as scope rail fit. Once you figure all the machining and time involved in getting a Rem 700 completely up and running for building a precision rifle on, a custom receiver looks alot more attractive in the end and in most cases not all that more expensive if any more at all. M.E. right, if you bed the rail base, you will need to lap the rings again. If you lapped on them alot, and you do it again, make sure that you have enough clamping force left on the rings, if not, you can have the bottom side of the top rings milled to take 20 thou off for more clamping action. With a heavy scope this is critical to have proper clamping power. With the bedding, if you have soft spots anywhere in the bedding, I would rebed the stock simply because if there is one soft spot, there WILL be others. Did you pillar bed the stock or just skim bed it? On the muzzle brake crown. As long as this does not touch the bullet as it passes through the brake, it will not effect accuracy in any way. I have tested this extensively to prove it and had SEVERELY marked up muzzle brakes shoot every bit as well as a perfectly clean crown on the muzzle brake. Its the crown on the actual barrel muzzle that is critical and MUST be free of any burr visiable or not. Back to the rail base issue. I would recommend going away from a one piece base in your situation to be honest. Obviously your receiver is dramatically out of spec if your getting 20 thou in flex when mounting the scope. I would bed a two piece NF set of bases, then install your rings, lap then to 100% contact and then mount your scope. This will eliminate any possible flex or stress to the receiver and just as important to the scope. Bedding a one piece base will also work but bedding compound is no where near as strong as steel and over time, I have seen some bedded rails start to have the bedding break down over time and cause problems. Generally this only occurs in severe cases where there is alot of bedding compound under the rail, for instance where the rear bridge is completely supported by bedding compound only. I still prefer steel to steel contact with bedding compound filling in around the contact points. A base completely supported by bedding compound just makes me nervous. Hope you get things figured out. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
338 Edge goes from 0.4 MOA to 2.0 MOA with same load?
Top