Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
303 British Resizing Procedure Question
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Black Hat" data-source="post: 2235336" data-attributes="member: 109036"><p>I wouldn't put a FL die anywhere near it, just use a neck die, and make sure you run an oring on the case just in front of the rim to keep it against the bolt face, the cases will grow around 100 thou! otherwise case head separation will likely occur around the third firing.</p><p></p><p>Then the case will be headspacing off the shoulder not the rim.</p><p></p><p>The chambers are cut with plenty of room to allow going into battery with mud, dirt and sand on the cartridges, and that's why you can't just load the projectile long into the lands to keep the case against the bolt, as when the firing pin strikes it pushes the case forward, when the powder ignites it forces the case to grab the chamber and stretches the case head/rim back against the bolt face.</p><p></p><p>I would also toss the brass after 5 firings, which is before the case will grow tight in the chamber.</p><p></p><p>Make sure you use the oring method on new cases, and start a fresh batch, old once fired cases will already have stretching occurring in the area where the head meets the case wall, you can cut an old case lengthways to confirm.</p><p></p><p>I also only neck size 3/4 of the neck to allow the unsized part of the neck to centre the case in the chamber, I'll upload some photos.</p><p></p><p>I've done plenty of reloading for the .303 for competition and this is the routine I came up with that gives best accuracy, case life and safety.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Black Hat, post: 2235336, member: 109036"] I wouldn't put a FL die anywhere near it, just use a neck die, and make sure you run an oring on the case just in front of the rim to keep it against the bolt face, the cases will grow around 100 thou! otherwise case head separation will likely occur around the third firing. Then the case will be headspacing off the shoulder not the rim. The chambers are cut with plenty of room to allow going into battery with mud, dirt and sand on the cartridges, and that's why you can't just load the projectile long into the lands to keep the case against the bolt, as when the firing pin strikes it pushes the case forward, when the powder ignites it forces the case to grab the chamber and stretches the case head/rim back against the bolt face. I would also toss the brass after 5 firings, which is before the case will grow tight in the chamber. Make sure you use the oring method on new cases, and start a fresh batch, old once fired cases will already have stretching occurring in the area where the head meets the case wall, you can cut an old case lengthways to confirm. I also only neck size 3/4 of the neck to allow the unsized part of the neck to centre the case in the chamber, I'll upload some photos. I've done plenty of reloading for the .303 for competition and this is the routine I came up with that gives best accuracy, case life and safety. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
303 British Resizing Procedure Question
Top