300WSM Reloading Brass Question

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by AidanTheEnforcer, Jul 22, 2013.

  1. AidanTheEnforcer

    AidanTheEnforcer Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2013
    I've been reloading for a few years so I've got a decent understanding of whats going on and how to go about things. Thing is i'm a a small bore guy and i mostly reload for my 22-250, but I have reloaded for my ex-girlfriends brother for 3 years now. This last deer season he had an issue if split necks after the 3rd reload and 4th firing as they started out as Winchester ammo.

    Annealing is about the only thing i can think that would save the brass but i don't really have a good way of doing it and my previous attempts haven't gone to well.

    So other then annealing what would you all recommend?

    All cartridges were loaded within SAMMI spec.
    cases were neck sized only so i know this is attributing to the early death of the case.

    I have yet to actually see one and I'm not sure if the last firing would put the cases over spec and i could trim them down to fix, presumably only getting another reload or two out of them before failure reoccurred.
     
  2. lightflight

    lightflight Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    229
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    I have a 270 WSM and that is about all I get without annealing.
     

  3. Mikecr

    Mikecr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,269
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    You should use Win reloading brass. They sell it by bag fulls
     
  4. AidanTheEnforcer

    AidanTheEnforcer Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2013
    OK, I'll check on the price of New Win Brass.

    Are any of you able to reference me to any intuitive videos/documentation of annealing. I't hard to tell proper coloring from a YouTube video and I've just never had luck so far. If i could find reliable documentation i think i could make a go of it.

    I've planned on creating a mechanical annealing machine once i get it figured out as I've seen a number on YouTube and they are of a fairly simple design.
     
  5. bbutturff

    bbutturff Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2011
  6. dragman

    dragman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,448
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2011
    Buy NOSLER or NORMA brass (same thing) I If you anneal you can get 20+ firings out of it easy even if you don't it's still good for at least 10+ if your not hot loading it and sizing it properly.
     
  7. lightflight

    lightflight Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    229
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    10-20+ on WSM brass? I must be doing it wrong. what is your process.
     
  8. dragman

    dragman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,448
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2011
    I body size the brass in a redding die, then neck size it down to .334 for my .338 neck gun or down to .337 on my .341 neck gun. then load away. Never had a problem, but guns are customs and have very good match chambers.
     
  9. lightflight

    lightflight Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    229
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    The match chambers might help a little...my factory hunting chamber is probably a little loose . How often do you anneal?
     
  10. dragman

    dragman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,448
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2011
    Never anneal anymore, I can't see the benifit as I get 10+ already
     
  11. Mikecr

    Mikecr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,269
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Annealing needs are tied to work hardening of brass which is a matter of sizing performed.
    Alot of sizing invokes annealing. Little to no sizing eliminates a need for it.

    Many assume annealing doesn't hurt, but does it really help? I say often it does not.
    Unless you anneal perfectly, A.K.A. lead dip anneal, there is a risk you're adding issues.
     
  12. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

    Messages:
    4,803
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2007
    Loads fired at or near max pressure will work harden by themselves. MikeCR has a self imposed limit of 53,000 PSI while the max for the WSM is 65,000.

    In the LR and big cartridge arena sizing body and neck is a must.

    Almost every LR competitor anneals every time normally for uniformity of neck tension.

    Lead dip annealing is one of the worst and most cumbersome ways to do it. Hot lead is not the safest stuff to be around or breath!! Do not dip a case in it that has drop of water anywere.

    Read the articles mentioned here and on 6mmBR.com on annealing and buy some templac crayon sticks. Correct temp range is normally right at 650 degrees.

    There are several annealing machines that make it easy (Benchsource, Ken Light, Giraurd) but it can be done my hand after reading and using the correct temp range templac.

    Norma brass is very good, but softer than Winchester, which requires a little more sorting. I use Norma for comp guns and Winchester for hunting rifles.

    Not shooting nickel cases are you?
     
  13. AidanTheEnforcer

    AidanTheEnforcer Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2013
    I'm just sitting back taking this all in, a lot of good information.
     
  14. lightflight

    lightflight Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    229
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
    I typically FL/ neck size every other firing. Assuming you Body die to get the benefits of FL sizing with working the brass less but still bump the shoulder back?

    My typical hunting load in my 270wsm is a 130gr Barnes TTSX runing 3255 avg. This load doesn't run through brass quickly but when I was developing for 150gr bergers and got of max load brass wasn't lasting long at all. But like you said that was due to pressure. But I'm done with those as my throat is too short to get a good load.

    AidanTE sorry if I hijacked...its still on topic right?