Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
.300 Win Mag
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="remingtonman_25_06" data-source="post: 6470" data-attributes="member: 1403"><p>The_Mountaineer</p><p></p><p>Yah I decided to go with the .300 Win. I have experience with the caliber, and it has good ballistics for a factory magnum that wont cost an arm and a leg. The reason it cost $600 is because its the older Sendero, non fluted, and like a teflon finish blueing, but its on sale. I woulda rather get the Sendero SF, but it was $825. The scope bases and mounts I use are always Leupold. Was maybe thinking of the Burris Signature because they will give you a little added MOA. I'm not sure how rings or bases give you more MOA though. I dont fully understand that. But I'm only going to be shooting at a max of 800 yards on targets, and I might try that 1000 yard tv shoot this year as well. So I hope I will have enough MOA to at least the 800 mark. I'm not really sure if barrel break in is really needed. But a lot of people do it. My 25/06 was never broken in, I just got the gun and shot it and cleaned it every 30-40 rounds. I consistently hit milk jugs at 500 yards along with coyotes. Cleaning never seemed to be any problem but I think I will try the barrel break in just to see if really is worth it. </p><p></p><p>BountyHunter</p><p></p><p>I was thinking about buying the RCBS competition seater. I think its something like $65. My accuracy goals for factory rifles are 3/4 at 100 yards. If I cant get it to group 3/4" at 100 yards, then I'll probly sell it. But I have had little trouble attaining 3/4" with any of my factory guns. It just takes a little time at the bench and range. Which I dont mind one bit. My 800 yard range is all of 5 minutes from my house. My accuracy goal for long range is just going to be 3 shot groups of 5 inches at 500 yards, 6 inches at 600 yards. So pretty much just 1 MOA at longer range and I will be a happy camper for sure. My 25/06 would do 4-5 inches average for 3 shots at 500 yards. I just hope I can shoot the .300 Win as good at LR with all that kick. I am not use to kick, I have been shooting my 25/06 which has a muzzle brake for 2 1/2 years so any recoil is going to get some use to. I am not afraid of recoil and I dont flinch either, I just always read you shoot lighter kicking guns better, and you can spot your hits and misses with a muzzle brake. But I think I ahve done a little damage to my ears from it, so I dont want to muzzle brake my .300. The .300 I had before was a Ruger and did not have a muzzle brake, and I shot a spike at a little over 500 yards on the 1st shot and he dropped dead. The .300 does slap me around a bit at teh bench though because im 6"2 and 145 lbs. Just a skinny guy. The bullet of choice is the 200g SMK. I thought about the 220g, but it is to slow and the trajectory is not great. I think the 200g will be a good compromise because usually we shoot 165g or 180g in our .300 Wins. I dont want anyone to lap the barrel or anything, I am not going to worry about that. I just want to be able to hit elk and bears out to the maximum of 700 yards. They are a big target with a lot bigger vitals than a deer, so I think I am setting my goals pretty good. </p><p></p><p>Thanks a lot guys for all the comments and help. Its greatly appreciated. I will keep you all posted on how it does. But, I wont have the gun for at least a month. I cant wait.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="remingtonman_25_06, post: 6470, member: 1403"] The_Mountaineer Yah I decided to go with the .300 Win. I have experience with the caliber, and it has good ballistics for a factory magnum that wont cost an arm and a leg. The reason it cost $600 is because its the older Sendero, non fluted, and like a teflon finish blueing, but its on sale. I woulda rather get the Sendero SF, but it was $825. The scope bases and mounts I use are always Leupold. Was maybe thinking of the Burris Signature because they will give you a little added MOA. I'm not sure how rings or bases give you more MOA though. I dont fully understand that. But I'm only going to be shooting at a max of 800 yards on targets, and I might try that 1000 yard tv shoot this year as well. So I hope I will have enough MOA to at least the 800 mark. I'm not really sure if barrel break in is really needed. But a lot of people do it. My 25/06 was never broken in, I just got the gun and shot it and cleaned it every 30-40 rounds. I consistently hit milk jugs at 500 yards along with coyotes. Cleaning never seemed to be any problem but I think I will try the barrel break in just to see if really is worth it. BountyHunter I was thinking about buying the RCBS competition seater. I think its something like $65. My accuracy goals for factory rifles are 3/4 at 100 yards. If I cant get it to group 3/4" at 100 yards, then I'll probly sell it. But I have had little trouble attaining 3/4" with any of my factory guns. It just takes a little time at the bench and range. Which I dont mind one bit. My 800 yard range is all of 5 minutes from my house. My accuracy goal for long range is just going to be 3 shot groups of 5 inches at 500 yards, 6 inches at 600 yards. So pretty much just 1 MOA at longer range and I will be a happy camper for sure. My 25/06 would do 4-5 inches average for 3 shots at 500 yards. I just hope I can shoot the .300 Win as good at LR with all that kick. I am not use to kick, I have been shooting my 25/06 which has a muzzle brake for 2 1/2 years so any recoil is going to get some use to. I am not afraid of recoil and I dont flinch either, I just always read you shoot lighter kicking guns better, and you can spot your hits and misses with a muzzle brake. But I think I ahve done a little damage to my ears from it, so I dont want to muzzle brake my .300. The .300 I had before was a Ruger and did not have a muzzle brake, and I shot a spike at a little over 500 yards on the 1st shot and he dropped dead. The .300 does slap me around a bit at teh bench though because im 6"2 and 145 lbs. Just a skinny guy. The bullet of choice is the 200g SMK. I thought about the 220g, but it is to slow and the trajectory is not great. I think the 200g will be a good compromise because usually we shoot 165g or 180g in our .300 Wins. I dont want anyone to lap the barrel or anything, I am not going to worry about that. I just want to be able to hit elk and bears out to the maximum of 700 yards. They are a big target with a lot bigger vitals than a deer, so I think I am setting my goals pretty good. Thanks a lot guys for all the comments and help. Its greatly appreciated. I will keep you all posted on how it does. But, I wont have the gun for at least a month. I cant wait. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
.300 Win Mag
Top