.300 Wby help!
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James Jones
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What type of problems are you having ??
The rifle is about 15 years old, but has not been shot alot. It has never been as accurate as I thought it should be, 2 1/2" groups at 100 yds. I know there are all kinds of places that do custom work and specialize in Mdl 700 actions, I was just hoping to find someone who specialized in the Weatherby Mark V. Thanks for the help!
http://www.weatherby.com/support/service_centers.asp
It sounds like a bedding problem
It sounds like a bedding problem
Has anyone done a darn good barrel cleaning?? Make sure the copper is out of the barrel. Also good scope, mounts that are tight (for sure), action screws properly torqued?
I don't think there is any "secret" to the mark V and your problem beyond this could be found by a good gunsmith.
I'd take it to anyone in your area with a reputation for being able to get bolt actions shooting better.
I don't think there is any "secret" to the mark V and your problem beyond this could be found by a good gunsmith.
I'd take it to anyone in your area with a reputation for being able to get bolt actions shooting better.
Fiftydriver
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There is a reason the Wby MkV is not more popular with accuracy minded gunsmiths, there is only so much you can do with them and at times you will get one that just will not perform as it should.
I personally do not distain the Wby MkV but it is not on my short list of preferred actions that I recommend to my customers for one of my custom rifles.
That said, if the receiver is true and a quality barrel is fitted properly with a correctly dimensioned chamber and throat and everything is sitting in a stress free bedding, they generally shoot extremely well.
First thing I would do it clean the bore as mentioned. This solved 50% of accuracy problems in fires like this.
I mean clean down to bare metal for the full length of the bore, not just the muzzle, just ahead of the throat is a major area of concern with fouling so make sure the entire length of the barrel is clean.
Once it is clean and accuracy is no better then I would start looking into bedding issues and if that does not fix the problem I would recommend either cutting your losses and selling the factory rifle or rebarreling it after being accurized.
Kirby Allen(50)
I personally do not distain the Wby MkV but it is not on my short list of preferred actions that I recommend to my customers for one of my custom rifles.
That said, if the receiver is true and a quality barrel is fitted properly with a correctly dimensioned chamber and throat and everything is sitting in a stress free bedding, they generally shoot extremely well.
First thing I would do it clean the bore as mentioned. This solved 50% of accuracy problems in fires like this.
I mean clean down to bare metal for the full length of the bore, not just the muzzle, just ahead of the throat is a major area of concern with fouling so make sure the entire length of the barrel is clean.
Once it is clean and accuracy is no better then I would start looking into bedding issues and if that does not fix the problem I would recommend either cutting your losses and selling the factory rifle or rebarreling it after being accurized.
Kirby Allen(50)
Thanks alot for the advice. The rifle has not had a good thorough cleaning as has been suggested, that will be my first step. The rifle has alot sentimental value to me, so I would like to get it shooting to its potetial. It is setting a Mcmillan stock, but just dropped in, nothing has been done to insure proper fit.
Buffalobob
Well-Known Member
Couple of more points,
Take a magnifying glass and take a careful look at the crown for any burrs, nicks or gouges that would bother a bullet exiting. Getting a new crown is pretty cheap but the wait period is somewhat out of context with the price being as most smiths are pretty busy.
I am not familiar with 'dropping an action into a McMillian stock' but I would certainly want to bed almost any action in almost any stock. There is really a very good and very long thread on this site about bedding actions.
The carbon buildup can require quite a few hours with a plastic bristle brush. I alternate about every 30 minutes between Sweets and Bore Shine. That way I kill twice as many of my brain cells with the noxious fumes. Iossa is supposed to be pretty good for letting sit in the bore over night and soften the carbon up. It is a gel so it doesn't run. I am going to order some and try it being as I am lazy and hate the hard work. I try to shoot on Saturdays so I have the whole Nascar race on Sunday to clean the carbon out.
As a suggestion, if you put some geography into your profile it helps all of us understand more about what you hunt and who is close to you, etc.
Take a magnifying glass and take a careful look at the crown for any burrs, nicks or gouges that would bother a bullet exiting. Getting a new crown is pretty cheap but the wait period is somewhat out of context with the price being as most smiths are pretty busy.
I am not familiar with 'dropping an action into a McMillian stock' but I would certainly want to bed almost any action in almost any stock. There is really a very good and very long thread on this site about bedding actions.
The carbon buildup can require quite a few hours with a plastic bristle brush. I alternate about every 30 minutes between Sweets and Bore Shine. That way I kill twice as many of my brain cells with the noxious fumes. Iossa is supposed to be pretty good for letting sit in the bore over night and soften the carbon up. It is a gel so it doesn't run. I am going to order some and try it being as I am lazy and hate the hard work. I try to shoot on Saturdays so I have the whole Nascar race on Sunday to clean the carbon out.
As a suggestion, if you put some geography into your profile it helps all of us understand more about what you hunt and who is close to you, etc.
chris matthews
Well-Known Member
Do what the others suggested - a good cleaning first -especially being aware of copper fouling.
But then if it still doesn't shoot up to snuff- I have and do work on Weatherby's all the time- got 3 in the shop now.
But then if it still doesn't shoot up to snuff- I have and do work on Weatherby's all the time- got 3 in the shop now.
Mysticplayer
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- Jul 27, 2001
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- 1,459
Here is a quick and easy way to address the fouling issue. Get some Barnes CR10 and JB non embedding paste. Start with the Barnes and you will quickly see blue if there is copper. There will be.
Wipe dry. Take a patch soaked on light oil and rub and bore wet. Put a blob of JB on that patch and run back and forth. This stuff is like toothpaste so wearing out the bore is unlikely in your lifetime. Make sure the patch is a nice tight fit.
I like to go back and forth about 30 times. Clean well with patches then use the Barnes again. A few wet patches and still lots of blue. Oil, JB, scrub some more, clean, Barnes, repeat as needed.
All this will get you back to bare metal in under 15 min.
from this point on, I rarely need to use either cleaner unless the bore gets shot a lot. I just keep an eye of accuracy and clean only as much as needed.
I would usually only use Barnes or a powder/copper solvent combo. Use the Barnes outside as the ammonia concentration is very strong - that's what does the work for you.
Another test, take the action screws out and see if you can wiggle the action in the stock. I bet you can. Get it bedded and the barrel free floated. adjust the trigger to the lightest weight you feel comfy with. Only neck size your fireformed brass. The lee collet neck die is superb.
Work up loads with bullets seated straight. I bet with some H4831SC or H1000 lit by a CCI BR2 or Fed 215M primer, behind some quality 165 or 180 gr bullets like the SST/AMAX/Ballistic tip, you will get some very nice shooting. These bullets may not be what you want to hunt with but are very accurate for testing. You could of course use a match bullet like a Matchking or Nosler comp as well.
Jerry
Wipe dry. Take a patch soaked on light oil and rub and bore wet. Put a blob of JB on that patch and run back and forth. This stuff is like toothpaste so wearing out the bore is unlikely in your lifetime. Make sure the patch is a nice tight fit.
I like to go back and forth about 30 times. Clean well with patches then use the Barnes again. A few wet patches and still lots of blue. Oil, JB, scrub some more, clean, Barnes, repeat as needed.
All this will get you back to bare metal in under 15 min.
from this point on, I rarely need to use either cleaner unless the bore gets shot a lot. I just keep an eye of accuracy and clean only as much as needed.
I would usually only use Barnes or a powder/copper solvent combo. Use the Barnes outside as the ammonia concentration is very strong - that's what does the work for you.
Another test, take the action screws out and see if you can wiggle the action in the stock. I bet you can. Get it bedded and the barrel free floated. adjust the trigger to the lightest weight you feel comfy with. Only neck size your fireformed brass. The lee collet neck die is superb.
Work up loads with bullets seated straight. I bet with some H4831SC or H1000 lit by a CCI BR2 or Fed 215M primer, behind some quality 165 or 180 gr bullets like the SST/AMAX/Ballistic tip, you will get some very nice shooting. These bullets may not be what you want to hunt with but are very accurate for testing. You could of course use a match bullet like a Matchking or Nosler comp as well.
Jerry
Jon A
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
It is setting a Mcmillan stock, but just dropped in, nothing has been done to insure proper fit.
[/ QUOTE ]
The very first thing I'd do is get it properly bedded. My McMillan wouldn't have shot worth a **** just dropped in--in fact, it might have broke something. Of course much of that is specific to my situation, but a good bedding job just needs to be done IMHO. See how it shoots after that and go from there.
It is setting a Mcmillan stock, but just dropped in, nothing has been done to insure proper fit.
[/ QUOTE ]
The very first thing I'd do is get it properly bedded. My McMillan wouldn't have shot worth a **** just dropped in--in fact, it might have broke something. Of course much of that is specific to my situation, but a good bedding job just needs to be done IMHO. See how it shoots after that and go from there.
James Jones
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- Joined
- Jul 1, 2002
- Messages
- 2,854
I think that alot of smith don't like to build on the MarkV because of all the lockinglugs , these take alot of time to handlap into place and I don't think that it can be done on a lathe like a Rem700 (maybe though)
But all in all they make great actions to build on they are realy strong very smooth and have that awsome 54deg bolt lift.
I have a 30-06AI that was built by Charley Sisk of Sisk guns . Its got a 3groove Lilja barrel at 26" and shoots just about everything I load in it under 1/2".
This is one of my "pretty guns" realy nice wood and super deep polished bluing.
But like every body else has mentiond go through a checklist
1)scope mounts and bases are tight
2)bore is clean
3)bedding is done right
3)crown isin't dinged up
And if all that fails have a chamber cast made you could have gotten a poor chamber or throat cut , that maybe able to be fixed bu just setting the barrel back a little and rechambering.
But all in all they make great actions to build on they are realy strong very smooth and have that awsome 54deg bolt lift.
I have a 30-06AI that was built by Charley Sisk of Sisk guns . Its got a 3groove Lilja barrel at 26" and shoots just about everything I load in it under 1/2".
This is one of my "pretty guns" realy nice wood and super deep polished bluing.
But like every body else has mentiond go through a checklist
1)scope mounts and bases are tight
2)bore is clean
3)bedding is done right
3)crown isin't dinged up
And if all that fails have a chamber cast made you could have gotten a poor chamber or throat cut , that maybe able to be fixed bu just setting the barrel back a little and rechambering.
I'd suggest using Blue Wonder to clean the barrel first. This will get you down to the bare metal. If thats not the problem then have it bedded and check the crown. If your still not satisfied then you might try the Tubbs final finish or throat erosion products. Good luck
