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.257Wby Ultra Light Report
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<blockquote data-quote="victor" data-source="post: 79641" data-attributes="member: 3361"><p>So,</p><p></p><p>You guys had to go and play around with the barrel's pressure point, Huh?</p><p></p><p>Ummm, yeah, I did the same thing in my .257Wby Ultralight. It didn't like it one bit. Bullets sprayed erraticly up to 3" apart @ 100yds.</p><p></p><p>Here is how I put the pressure point back in. This procedure is not as good as Freebore's but it should get you back in the ballpark.</p><p></p><p>I heard somewhere that the Weatherby's use 14.5lbs of pressure pushing up from the fore end at appox. 1.5 to 2" back from the tip of the fore end.</p><p></p><p>I took an old grocery scale that my wife bought for decoration at the local good will store for $5.The scale is flat on top and the range is from 0 to 20lbs. I placed the barrel of my rifle on the scale. Held the buttstock under my armpit. Pulled down on the fore end until the scale registers 14.5lbs. Then a buddy can take a measurement of the deflection at the tip of the fore end. You will be measuring between the bottom channel in the fore end and the barrel.</p><p></p><p>I then bought some silly puddy (kid stuff, its cheap) and make a mote to contain some betting compound. Pour the bedding compound into the mold and let it dry.</p><p></p><p>The next day, file the hump down until you have the barrel sitting the previously measured distance away from the fore end channel. This may take some trial and error to get it just right. </p><p></p><p>In addition, after I got the hump to the right height I then make a bigger mote with the silly putty that encompassed the hump. Poured in more bedding compound and placed the action and barrel into the stock and tightend down the screws. This displaced the bedding compound aroud the hump area so the barrel rests on the hump. So now the barrel is captivated on all sides for about a 1.5" length in the area of the pressure hump. I'm not sure if this is the best way to go, but i figured with the synthetic stock, there will be no swelling or shrinkage of any kind so why not freeze the barrel and forend together to make things a tad more rigid. It seems to shoot ok. Ok, its not really frozen, as the barrel heats up it can move longitudenally.</p><p></p><p>However my new barrel will be slightly thicker and free floated.</p><p></p><p>Hey freebore, I see you have a good recipe: 115Btip with H1000 that shoots 3,500 fps. How about throwing us a bone letting us know how many grains your using.</p><p></p><p>Thanks,</p><p>Vic</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="victor, post: 79641, member: 3361"] So, You guys had to go and play around with the barrel's pressure point, Huh? Ummm, yeah, I did the same thing in my .257Wby Ultralight. It didn't like it one bit. Bullets sprayed erraticly up to 3" apart @ 100yds. Here is how I put the pressure point back in. This procedure is not as good as Freebore's but it should get you back in the ballpark. I heard somewhere that the Weatherby's use 14.5lbs of pressure pushing up from the fore end at appox. 1.5 to 2" back from the tip of the fore end. I took an old grocery scale that my wife bought for decoration at the local good will store for $5.The scale is flat on top and the range is from 0 to 20lbs. I placed the barrel of my rifle on the scale. Held the buttstock under my armpit. Pulled down on the fore end until the scale registers 14.5lbs. Then a buddy can take a measurement of the deflection at the tip of the fore end. You will be measuring between the bottom channel in the fore end and the barrel. I then bought some silly puddy (kid stuff, its cheap) and make a mote to contain some betting compound. Pour the bedding compound into the mold and let it dry. The next day, file the hump down until you have the barrel sitting the previously measured distance away from the fore end channel. This may take some trial and error to get it just right. In addition, after I got the hump to the right height I then make a bigger mote with the silly putty that encompassed the hump. Poured in more bedding compound and placed the action and barrel into the stock and tightend down the screws. This displaced the bedding compound aroud the hump area so the barrel rests on the hump. So now the barrel is captivated on all sides for about a 1.5" length in the area of the pressure hump. I'm not sure if this is the best way to go, but i figured with the synthetic stock, there will be no swelling or shrinkage of any kind so why not freeze the barrel and forend together to make things a tad more rigid. It seems to shoot ok. Ok, its not really frozen, as the barrel heats up it can move longitudenally. However my new barrel will be slightly thicker and free floated. Hey freebore, I see you have a good recipe: 115Btip with H1000 that shoots 3,500 fps. How about throwing us a bone letting us know how many grains your using. Thanks, Vic [/QUOTE]
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