2005 Wildcat Bullets Price List.....

[Fiftydriver]

The HP bullets are in fact Hollow Points, at least all the ones I have shot have been.

The Mag Tip bullet does not have any poly tip. THey have the lead filled to the tip of the bullet nose and some are slighly blunted at the tip to enhance expansion with the very heavy jackets used on some of these bullets. Some do not have this slight blunt.

Basically they are just a very small Flat Point on a tight Meplat.

Yes these are the jacket thicknesses. The 0.010 are for varminting and match shooting, The 0.020 can be used for lighter big game with heavier bullets or with bonded core bullets.

For heavy big game use the 0.030 and 0.040 and if needed with the bonded cores. The 0.040 will need some serious velocity to fully expand making it very well suited for the very large magnums. If you will be shooting at extreme range the 0.020 and 0.030 jackets would be a better choice then the 0.040 for expansion purposes.

The 0.065 jackets are extremely thick for use on the heaviest game or at the highest velocity for short range impacts. For big game with high velocity I would highly recommend the bonded core option to prevent core slippage which is a problem with any bullet.

Talk to Richard and he will tell you what jackets you need for your needs.

Good SHooting,

Kirby Allen(50)

 

[jsali]

What would be a good selection for both long range target shooting and hunting deer/moose? (.300 win mag)

 

[Fiftydriver]

Johnny5,

The 300 Win is not overly hard on bullets but moose are thick tough critters. Not overly hard to kill but are a challange to penetrate for sure.

I would try something in class of the 190 gr to 200 gr weight with a jecket in the 0.030" range. Getting one bullet to perform on deer and moose is a challange as well as perform as a long range bullet. This is alot to ask of one bullet.

In my opinion, I would set up to succeed against the largest game so I would go with the 0.030" jacket and would probably go with a ULD FB Bonded Core bullet for the moose. For the deer the same bullet without the bonded core would be plenty for sure.

THese ULD FB bullets are very respectible in trajectory so do not get hung up on the FB issue.

The 130 gr BCFBHP in 257 have a B.C. of .550 so keep this in mind.

To be honest I would drop Richard a line and ask the man himself what he would recommend for your needs. I am, like you, jus tone of his customers. He will have much more valuable information to offer you.

Good Shooting!!

Kirby Allen(50)

 

[Jon A]

Yeah, that's a good point people should know:

The bonded core doesn't agree with forming the boattail. So one needs to choose between bonding and the RBBT.

Another--jackets thicker than .030 don't form in the ULD ogive well. If you want .040 or .065 jackets for some reason, stick with the tangent ogives.

Johnny, I agree with Kirby--talk to Richard and he'll help you out. In your situation, I'd like to try the bullet I almost ordered: A 225, .030, bonded FB with the ULD ogive. I would think that would be outstanding for Moose, at least. If it turns out to be too tough for deer, have him make some unbonded.

Anyway, when Richard told me he could make the same thing in 240, I changed my order to those but they're for a RUM. I primarily want them for elk at the moment (if I get them in time) and will just have to do some expansion/penetration testing to determine if I need something softer for deer. Until I do some testing, I'm really just speculating.

 

[jsali]

I don't know if I need to go with a bonded core bullet. I have had great results on moose with un-bonded cores. You are right though moose are definately tough customers. In my experience unless you hit them in the brain/spine they will walk on until they bleed out. I found that extreme accuracy is the ticket with those fellows. I hit on in the heart last fall at 340 yards with a 200 grain SGK BTSP and it looked at me like "is that all you've got"? I had to hit him twice more in the lungs before he finally sat down. I think a heavy 190/200 grain unbonded bullet should do it as long as there is enough penetration to go reach the heart/spine/brain. I was simply inquiring about which bullet would give me good long range performance and decent penetration/expansion.

 

[4ked Horn]

Big Bore. It's looking better. I would still reccomend moving the ULD stuff to the ogive column.

I also noticed this:

100 J4 Flat
100 J4 RBBT
110 J4 RBBT
110 J4 Flat

I would reccomend rearanging to look like this for consistancy:

100 J4 Flat
100 J4 RBBT
110 J4 Flat
110 J4 RBBT

First flat then RBBT. It keeps things flowing nicely and allows the viewer to more easily see the options change from one line to the next.

Fifty driver. Thanks for the info on the mag tips. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Mikecr]

I got a questions for you:
If "10" is the ogive length in calibers(tangent? Secant?), then how many calibers is "ULD"?
Many Berger VLDs are around 15cal in secant ogive.

 

[4ked Horn]

Read Fifty drivers first response for an answer to your question. That whole thread is all about ogive designations if you are interested in more info.

 

[Jon A]

Here's a pic to help describe the types:

These are all .338 bullets. From the left, a 225 flat base with ULD ogive, bonded with .030 jacket. Next is a 250 flat base with the 6 tangent ogive, also bonded with the Mag Tip. This gives a good visual on the differences between the ogives. The ULD (which I believe is about a 14 caliber secant) on the 225 makes the nose noticably longer and sleeker and will have a BC advantage on an equal weight bullet. Its HP is slightly smaller than the Mag Tip as well.

And for comparison, there's a 300 ULD next followed by a 350 ULD. Both obviously with the ULD ogive and a RBBT but not bonded.

 

[Mikecr]

All I'm sayin is that 8 or 10 are ogive measures. "ULD" is more like a brand name or description w/resp to "VLD", and not an indicator of ogive shape or nose length/proportion.
It's meaningless(other than as a sales pitch) unless defined in some manner.
For instance, heavy/HiBC Euber bullets are described as long "VLD" bullets. They could be merchandised as "ULD" right? But their long VLDs actually have relatively short ogives.

 

[Brent]

Mike is correct, the ULD/VLD shape must still be defined.

Each bullet if not all of a Tangent design must therfore be designated Secant or Tangent if he makes both type. 10S or 10T would be proper, 10 is just half the definition. ULD/VLD means nothing and is simply a relative term, and relative to what makes it even more meaningless.

Kirby,

If Richard makes only a few of the Secant design, or even the Tangent, maybe you could ask him to point out the select few that are not the majority and edit your post to reflect which shape is which? Some also do not indicate the ogive caliber? Overall bullet length would be another good column to add as well.

 

[3sixbits]

Overall bullet length would be another good column to add as well.

[/ QUOTE ] I've asked Richard to do this also. I think it would be a vary handy addition to any bullet makers information regarding there product. No more questions of will it work in my twist? It allows the shooter to run the GREENHILL formula for himself! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[4ked Horn]

[ QUOTE ]
I got a questions for you:
If "10" is the ogive length in calibers(tangent? Secant?), then how many calibers is "ULD"?
Many Berger VLDs are around 15cal in secant ogive.

[/ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
All I'm sayin is that 8 or 10 are ogive measures. "ULD" is more like a brand name or description w/resp to "VLD", and not an indicator of ogive shape or nose length/proportion.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm confused. Are you askin' me or tellin' me?

Did you notice that I referenced a guy that knows a ton more than I do about this (who also informed me that "ULD" is a relative term)? The reason I directed youu to Fiftys post is that I just learned this stuff last week (which I stated earlier). Are you saying that big bore should leave the ULD in the point/base column? If so then just say it. You won't hurt anyones feelings. I was completely wrong about the mag tip thing and fully acknoledged it. Fifty Driver corrected me in one sentence and both Big Bore and myself and others learned something we didn't know before. Ya gotta' like the "straight in" approach to clearing things up.

I ain't mad, I just suppose I didn't get what you were driving at with your first question. If you were trying to get me to look into it deeper I'm sorry I missed your point.

[ QUOTE ]
It's meaningless(other than as a sales pitch) unless defined in some manner.

[/ QUOTE ]

Maybe Big bore could call Richard and ask him what he is calling a ULD. Then it would mean something.

 

[Mikecr]

Didn't mean to imply anything was wrong. I was just digging I guess, for as much info as I could get about the real specs on these bullets.
Sorry if I hijacked