200 vs 315 yard zero

200 for me.

Why would anyone aim low? When one sights in for maximum range, whether it is 4" up and down or some other amount, the idea is aim at the middle to whatever predetermined range one has selected.

With my 257 Wby I use the same technique.... zero at 330 yds which is 3.7" high at around 225 yds and 3.7" low at 400. That way it's just point and shoot.

I run all my dope from a 100 yard zero, but walk with the scope dialed for an appropriate MPBR setting for the species in question (smaller kill zone for whitetail, larger for elk etc). If I get into heavy cover, I'll dial back to 100 in case of sudden confrontation. Shots farther out are taken from good rest positions, dialed up to exact dope.

300 for me for the same reasons others have said but I use Kentucky windage out to 400. My bullet drops 8 inches at 400 so I just hold for the spine on a deer and top of shoulder on elk at that distance.

Seems to make sense to zero at 100 for those short range surprises & take the time to dial up for longer shots IMO. Hate to admit it, but I've been there/done that-shot under at 40 yards. Still painful to think about it.

All of my LR rifles zeroed at 300 yards. I prefer to establish group size at 300 so I just zero it in at that distance. Been doing this for years and has been very effective in taking large game. Essentially 4" high at 100 yards and 4" low at 350 for most of my rifles. Took a young hunter out last year who had a 360 yard shot on a coues deer and a short window to take it due to fog cover. Told him to aim high on the shoulder and he dropped it as soon as he could set the bipod and get on it. If sighted in at 200 yards you are close to 4" low at 280 and 10" low at 350. 300 yard zero seems to provide a reasonable reference within the range most of our shots are taken. We can generally close within 350 yards before taking a shot. Bottom line, become proficient with the system that works for you.

Some great feedback here.
I have seen some good points made about a 100 yard zero but haven't seen anything that tells me a benefit of a 200 yard vs 300 or Maximum Point Blank Range.

I see a lot talking about the dope calcs. But a calculation is a calculation so I am not sure how 200 would be any different than 300. If that's the concern I can see where 100 would be better. Is there a reason that dialing from a 300 yard zero vs a 200 would be more difficult?

Just trying to get to a real world solution - not all of us are hunting areas where we take the time to measure every point before we shoot - we just know when we seen an animal that they are a shooter or not (think A zone of California ).

A Muley at 200 yards or even 300 can offer a shot sometimes but not enough time to play with a turret and you run the risk of them hearing and or seeing you at that range.

So far - again just for my use I see a big benefit to dialing for MPBR - BUT this is assuming that all of us on this forum are actually testing and running / verifying the drop data.

Kirby made some great points to me about FFP within 1000 yards and using the reticle.

For those that 0 at 200 - what is the reason for 200 instead of 100 and why not MPBR (Maximum Point Blank Range).

Thanks again for all of the feedback. This is why I love this forum - great insight and feedback and no bashing or acting like a child. You guys are all top notch.

300 yards for my 7.62 N M118 equivalent used 180 SMK (M14 NM) when I used it a lot for hunting and culling.

I could engage from touching distance out to 500 with no turret adjustment under 3 use a low hold, out to 5 hold high and it could easily be managed with or without a Mildot scope. (think the old 30/30 or heavy duplex reticle) Should also mention that the iron sights allowed me to verify a 300 yard zero, should I need to remove the scope and put it back on.

Sometimes the reason for a set zero instead of MPB is that ranges are set up in 100 yard increments, with backstops and target stands.

Theirs multiple reasons I use a 200 yd zero is at close range I'm not comfortable being 4" high. If you're in unfamiliar surroundings in different stages of light will easily distort your ability to guess range beyond 200 yds. Making ranging necessary. Im also not making "quick" off hand shots past 300 yds. If I have time to get steady I can easily compensate using my reticle and past 300 the wind is so often blowing hard where I live I often need to hold for it...deer don't always give us a nice broadside shot.
Basically it comes down to that I'm comfortable making a 200 yd or closer shot fast, by off hand or dropping into a kneel so I set my zero for that

All of my hunting guns shoot high BC heavy bullets at over 3000 FPS (except my EDGE). I zero every one of them at 300. Just point and shoot to 350. If I "need" that exact, precise hold for 213.7758 yards I refer to my dope chart taped to my scope.

Only one of my rifles is sighted for 200 yards and that due to the scope set-up. All others, whether I dial or just hold over, are sighted at 100 yards. Why? My average shot to put meat in the freezer is under 200 yards. I have a few hunting opportunities to take game out to 600-700 yards and that's when I'll carry the one rifle sighted at 200.

I zero at 200 , simply because that's the shortest distance my local range has to offer. Hasn't let me down on "normal" range shots on game.

I zero at 200 because I like being within 1.5" or so at closer ranges. Based on experience I'm more likely to yank a close offhand shot than a long shot over a rest, and if I'm sighted 4" high it might mean a wounded animal. Another part of this is estimating range - I will likely be ranging anything past 250 yards regardless of where I'm zeroed. And if I'm taking the time to range something I certainly have 2 seconds to dial my turret or just hold over a bit. The guns I hunt with most often have CDS turrets so its really quick to range and dial for the mid-range shots.