Recent content by catamountsierra

I've got a cheapo Caldwell that has a couple holes in it from a 223. Apparently I didn't hit anything vital because it still works. I did use it as a reason (excuse?) to upgrade to a Magnetospeed.

I have a short action Remington 700 set up in 284Win. With a Wyatt's box, I'm running a max of 2.995" from the magazine. I'm running 168ABLR at 2799 fps and 165TGK at 2830fps out of a 25" barrel, so it can be done. A mid length of long action would give it room to run even more, and I think I'd...

Prairie dog towns make sense, but about the only ones that I've seen have been crossing the road in front of me. I wonder if a predator call in a dog town might entice them out of a hole since they seem to hide most of the day; if a coyote comes in that won't be a problem. I would generally...

I'm looking for a place that has a decent badger population. My son is 9 and is deadset on shooting one. I've seen a few out towards Swan Falls, but only because they ran across the road. Any suggestions for areas in southwest Idaho would be appreciated, as would any other tips. Thanks.

Keep in mind that a 214 Hammer, being a mono, is likely a lot longer than a 212 ELD-X and its lead core.

Not to mention about half the cost at the time...

My experience with their 7mm-08 brass was that it was as consistent as the Nosler and Norma brass that I had, certainly way more consistent than the Winchester or Federal brass.

It took me about half an hour to remove the old manual S&G on my old Browning safe and install a new digital S&G lock. The instructions were well written and pretty simple. I got the digital S&G unit from Amazon for less than 200. I used a lithium 9v battery and haven't had any issues since.

I was thinking that too, but just checked. 21A is one of the few units that do open on the 1st; most units in Idaho don't open until the 15th though.

I have two Sig Tango 4 4-16x44 scopes, and like those. I have the first generation grey one on my 284Win, and a second generation black one on my 223AI. So far they track well, hold a good zero, have a solid zero stop, and the illuminated reticle turn itself off if the rifle stops moving and...

I don't think the quench is critical, but I figure I might as well if I need to rinse any traces of salt off the brass. The only advantage in terms of the actual annealing is that it would stop the flow of heat from the case neck/shoulder into the body of the case, but since the mass of that...

My process, more or less, as I have settled on it at this point. Deprime Neck brush Primer pockets Anneal 6 seconds Quench Neck brush Clean primer pockets Datum 1.8005 Size FL-Type S 0.004 holder, .312 bushing Trim/chamfer 610 micrometer Wipe off lube/neck brush Prime Charge Seat 168ABLR...

Here is a little write up. I hope this helps anyone who wants to try this.

PID: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195V53X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Probe: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQTSPNV/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Solid state relay...

How much your brass anneals is determined by the combination of temperature and time; a hotter temperature requires less time and a lower temperature requires more time. For cartridge cases, we also only want to anneal the neck and shoulder, so time becomes a potential control as longer time...