Muzzle Brake Removal Question

[Black Tail Hunter]

Hey Fellas,

When I try to remove my muzzle brake to clean it and my barrel it is a huge pain in the rear. I built a strap type wrench but it wont grip tight enough most of the time to remove. I usually end up wrapping it with a piece of material and using channel locks which has left some marks on it.

Is there a better way to do this, also is anyone familliar with this type of brake as far as who may have manufactured it? Sorry for the low res photo.

 

[IdahoCTD]

Use the back end of a tight fitting drill bit and drop it in one of the holes.

 

[Broz]

Find a steel round rod that is just under the size of the ports and insert it through both sides. A ground off screwdriver might work if it had a good fit. You want something close to the same size as the holes.

After cleaning use a heavy grease (wheel bearing) or anti seize on the threads to reinstall. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!!!! Just snug it up. Over tightening on that small of a barrel contour can easily compress the end of the barrel causing a tight spot. I only would take it on and off if absolutely necessary.

Jeff

 

[Black Tail Hunter]

The photos dont show it but the holes are angle drilled and you cant pass an object straight through. Possibly though I could come in from each side and get enough torque to get it to break free. Good idea on the never sieze. Thanks.

 

[Mossy49]

I use a brass rod the same size of ports,works great.

 

[Hired Gun]

There is not really a need to take it off. Most rifles they are not intended to come off.

 

[J E Custom]

Sometimes you need to take some brakes off to clean them (The side ported brakes can be cleaned in place) and also occasionally you may get a cleaning patch stuck in one and need to take the brake off.

I recommend using Never seize on the threads to keep them from wearing screwing them on and off
(Some do this every time they clean) and in the event you have to take the brake you can do so with
reasonable ease.

I also recommend removing them occasionally Just to clean the threads and lube them to prevent them from seizing, (bore solvents tend to remove any lubricants) .

I use aluminum flat bar in the ports to remove the ported brakes and drills or taper pins on the drilled brakes. A light tap on the tool with a mallet will normally remove it with ease.

If you don't ever remove it, at some point it may not come off and a Gun Smith will have to machine
it off and may have to re-thread the barrel.

Just My opinion, From having to remove brakes that have never been removed since installation.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Black Tail Hunter]

Played around with it last night and the taper punch on each side method works good. Thanks for your advice guys.

 

[Hired Gun]

I have had to remove them for various reasons and I frequently find with Red Loctite in them. They come right off when the directions are followed.

I used to be a never seez guy but had one on a light weight large caliber magnum come loose after 100 rounds or so and the ports ended up pointing towards the ground during a hunt. The ground blast was blamed for a miss. I now use Blue in all of them.

I believe there is no need to get in there and do any cleaning. You don't clean the port in the barrel of an AR or AK or any gas operated auto. High pressure gas keeps them functionally clean. In 40+ years I have yet to see a muzzle brake or bore plug shut from not cleaning it.

 

[shortgrass]

The problems arise when the owner wants to practice using the break then take it off and put a thread protecter on while hunting. They've all got an answer when I bring up the change in barrel harmonics and possible POI changes. If I spent more time on the internet maybe I'd be as 'informed' as some are. Most all breaks use a fine thread and it's easy to booger that first thread (or more) when putting it back on if you're not paying attention. Real easy to over torque, too. Some just think they ought to able to take 'um off and play with 'um, I think. Pipe cleaners work nicely for cleaning.

 

[specweldtom]

Probably just O/C, but I have to take them off occasionally if for no other reason than just to be sure they will still come off. When I do, they always have a crappy accumulation of powder and solvent residue inside. That's enough reason for me to keep doing it.

Some other reasons have been posted. The most common one I've run into is a patch that gets stuck in the brake, and my favorite concentric brake, the Vais, has a chamber in the back of the brake that accumulates so much crap that it needs to be cleaned fairly frequently.

I use a homemade tool to tap one up tightly or to pop it loose, either a fitted piece of drill rod for concentric brakes or a soft steel or aluminum blade for side port brakes. Choke grease, dead center lube, or NeverSeize on the threads. Fine threads gall very easily when dry. I learned the hard way of course. Had to part one off. Trashed an expensive side port brake.

My logic for tightening a brake on with a couple of good licks is 1st, since it affects barrel harmonics, I want it to be a part of the barrel, with no possibility to move and be inconsistent. 2nd, is just so it won't start to unwind while I'm shooting. Like a lot of the things we do, this is just my preference for dealing with muzzle brakes, but it works.

A plug for JE custom: I've got his brakes on 2 of my rifles, and they are phenomenal. One took my .338 x .378 from 50 ft/lbs of recoil to 18.5 ft/lbs. Check out his website @ www.jecustom.com - Home of the Assassin Muzzle Brake. Some good video and data. Well worth the time.

Good shooting, Tom

 

[FEENIX]

The problems arise when the owner wants to practice using the break then take it off and put a thread protecter on while hunting. They've all got an answer when I bring up the change in barrel harmonics and possible POI changes. If I spent more time on the internet maybe I'd be as 'informed' as some are. Most all breaks use a fine thread and it's easy to booger that first thread (or more) when putting it back on if you're not paying attention. Real easy to over torque, too. Some just think they ought to able to take 'um off and play with 'um, I think. Pipe cleaners work nicely for cleaning.

+1! This is an excellent opportunity to install a better muzzle brake that you can clean with ease i.e. ...

... there are many choices out there!

 

[J E Custom]

For clarification:

It is not the muzzle brake that needs cleaning as much as the threads.

If the threads are maintained/cleaned they will become corroded or fouled to the point that
the brake may not be removable.

A good example is the breach plug on a muzzle loader. How many people have or have had a
muzzle loader that the breach plug was/is no longer removable because it was not removed and cleaned every time the rifle was cleaned? I DO>

I am not saying that the brake should be removed and cleaned every time, But routinely maintained
so that If a need to remove it arises it will come off without damage.

Some muzzle brakes are easier to clean than others and if a cleaning patch gets stuck removal
is easy. Sometimes I remove the brake, spray it down with solvent and let it soak while I am cleaning the rifle. After cleaning the rifle and the threads, I freshen the thread lube and proceed
to clean the brake. It is amazing how much crud comes out of the brake. also it is easer to clean
off the rifle.

In my mind the rifle is not clean until all not just part of it is cleaned and wiped down with an oily rag.

Do what you want, and live with the outcome.

This has been a public service announcement Ha Ha

J E CUSTOM