Are all Picatinny rails basically the same? My Dad just bought a Zeiss Diavari that came with a set of Zeiss rings that are for a Picatinny rail mount. Well the rail it comes with, he claims the ring bases can move back and forth in the rail. It actaully isnt the right rail for his gun anyways, he was just messing with it. So he wanted me to ask if any brand of rail is fine, or does he need the Zeiss rail? It is going an a Weatherby Mark V Dlx. I havent ever had a rifle with a rail so i know very little about them myself. I thought they were universal in size so it really didnt matter but i could imagine tolerances are better on some than others?
Picatinny Rails?
- Thread starter Sako7STW
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NomadPilot
Well-Known Member
Picatinny rail specs are all the same (it's a mil-spec), but that doesn't mean manufacturers maintain the same QC or tolerances, as you already said.
Here's what it's supposed to be:
Make sure what he got wasn't Weaver.
GunTech : Picatinny Rails, Weaver Rails, What
Here's what it's supposed to be:
Make sure what he got wasn't Weaver.
GunTech : Picatinny Rails, Weaver Rails, What
ken snyder
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2010
- Messages
- 420
O.K. Now I'm curiously confused. Maybe we have some regional common name differences, but whats the difference, I use the terms interchangeably but prefer to call the ones with lots of mounting slots a picatinny.
NomadPilot
Well-Known Member
Look at the last line of my post. It's a link that explains the difference.
ken snyder
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2010
- Messages
- 420
Thank you nomad pilot. I didn't know that.
B23
Well-Known Member
If this is going on one of the big Wby magnums, do yourself a favor, put a Near mfg. rail on it and be done. I used many different rails on a Accumark 338-378 until I finally got sick of fighting it trying to do it the cheaper way.
Near mfg. products are not cheap so I'll warn you now but if you are wanting this for a big Wby. magnum you will be money ahead doing it right the first time around.
Near mfg. products are not cheap so I'll warn you now but if you are wanting this for a big Wby. magnum you will be money ahead doing it right the first time around.
RDM416
Well-Known Member
Near makes a good rail as well as Badger Ord. and Night Force you can't go wrong with any of those.
With any rail when you sit the ring(s) on the rail they will be able to move back and forth in the slot so what you are seeing there is normal.
When I am mounting rings to a rail I get them positioned in the slot I want them, then push the front ring all the way forward in the slot and the back ring all the way to the back of the slot. Doing that will help keep the rings from slipping on the rail.
It is best to use a torque wrench to tighten the rings to the base. It is possible even with quality rings and rail to create distortion or stress by over tightening the rings. Most manufacturers recommend in the range of 60 to 65 in/lbs.
Don't forget a quality set of rings to with that rail...... NF, Badger, Leup MK4....
With any rail when you sit the ring(s) on the rail they will be able to move back and forth in the slot so what you are seeing there is normal.
When I am mounting rings to a rail I get them positioned in the slot I want them, then push the front ring all the way forward in the slot and the back ring all the way to the back of the slot. Doing that will help keep the rings from slipping on the rail.
It is best to use a torque wrench to tighten the rings to the base. It is possible even with quality rings and rail to create distortion or stress by over tightening the rings. Most manufacturers recommend in the range of 60 to 65 in/lbs.
Don't forget a quality set of rings to with that rail...... NF, Badger, Leup MK4....
Hi Guys,
The other day I tried to draw Picatinny with AutoCad, and I am a bit confused about cross secction dimensions. At first look, at least one of them can't be right, even if it sounds ridiculous.
Every drawing says rail width should be 0.835" (let's forget tolerances for simplicity now) with 45 degree angles on both sides, and there must be a cross section within those 45 degrees, with 0.748" width and 0.108 height. Now on any edge (look at drawing at start of topic) try to imagine a virtual triangle, where the horizontal line is half of the difference of the mentioned horizontal dimensions (0.835 - 0.748) / 2 = 0.0435, the vertical line is half of the vertical (0.108 / 2 = 0.054"). Based on these two numbers, the third side of the triangle can definitely not be 45 degrees, because it would require the same dimensions both vertical and horizontal. It must be 45 based ont he drwaing, but then what's wrong? Or wich dimensions can be a bit flexible?
The other day I tried to draw Picatinny with AutoCad, and I am a bit confused about cross secction dimensions. At first look, at least one of them can't be right, even if it sounds ridiculous.
Every drawing says rail width should be 0.835" (let's forget tolerances for simplicity now) with 45 degree angles on both sides, and there must be a cross section within those 45 degrees, with 0.748" width and 0.108 height. Now on any edge (look at drawing at start of topic) try to imagine a virtual triangle, where the horizontal line is half of the difference of the mentioned horizontal dimensions (0.835 - 0.748) / 2 = 0.0435, the vertical line is half of the vertical (0.108 / 2 = 0.054"). Based on these two numbers, the third side of the triangle can definitely not be 45 degrees, because it would require the same dimensions both vertical and horizontal. It must be 45 based ont he drwaing, but then what's wrong? Or wich dimensions can be a bit flexible?
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That is fine if there is a little wiggle room. When mounting the scope make sure you push your rings forward, towards the end of the barrel. Make sure they are tight up against that rail. If not you may experience a shift in impact as the scope rings slide forward (be it minimally) over time.
SidecarFlip
Well-Known Member
First off, this thread is older than the cheese left on the mousetrap last winter. Secondly, you have it ***-backwards. The rings must be set back against the rail lugs not forward. Most quality rings will have an intergal recoil lug in the dovetail that needs to be physically against the rear of the rail lug.
First off, do you just troll the site and comment on anything I say?
Second off, you are wrong and sound arrogant.
You can watch this video, I'm sure this guy has forgotten more about scopes than you will ever know.
Vortex Optics - Mounting A Precision Riflescope
Second off, you are wrong and sound arrogant.
You can watch this video, I'm sure this guy has forgotten more about scopes than you will ever know.
Vortex Optics - Mounting A Precision Riflescope
SidecarFlip
Well-Known Member
No, because you only have 12 posts. I'm not arrogant, I'm old enought to be your dad and if I was, I'd teach you some respect and manners. Trolls are little green things in fairy tales.
And BTW, you do have it correct, the recoil lug of the rings goes against the backside of the rail lug in respect to recoil. I stand corrected. However, there is an exception and thats a high power air rifle because they recoil in the opposite direction but thats not gername to this discussion.
Have a great day and learn some respect for your elders.
