Rebarreling a 9 1/8 to an 8 or 7.5

Beelzebub

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Dec 26, 2010
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276
Location
NW FL
243/6mm bbl. I don't need the best money can buy. Having said that, how cheap w/ quality can I get a 26" 8 or 7 1/2 for my 700? I'm gonna slowly try to build a better plinker.

thanks in advance for any replies.

Zeelzebub
 
243/6mm bbl. I don't need the best money can buy. Having said that, how cheap w/ quality can I get a 26" 8 or 7 1/2 for my 700? I'm gonna slowly try to build a better plinker.

thanks in advance for any replies.

Zeelzebub


There is only about $100.00 dollars difference in the cheepest barrel and the best barrelso spend
your hard earned money on a good barrel.

The Smithing cost is the same, and along with the cheep barrels comes the chances of a poor
performer no matter how good the smith does.

Also In my experance the top end barrels are more load forgiving and not as picky.

A 1 in 9 twist is recomended but if you want a faster twist the 1 in 8 would be the fastest twist
I would recomend. (To much twist can be rough on bullet jackets).

Just My Opinion

J E CUSTOM
 
Thanks JE,

that the kind of experienced answers I need. I'm 60. Got several bulet holes (thr and thru), more broken bones and metal joints than I want to remember. I'm young at heart but my mind knows way better. So I have no assperations (sp) of laying on a $500 shooting mat with a sponsors jacket on and a spotter kneeling down next to me. I just want to out shoot all the boys in camp with an out of the box looking gun. I've already taken all of their Christmas money with my S&S 686.

A hundred dollars won't make me have to move my pillow, so point me in the direction of a good barrel maker. One than can put some threads on the end of it or maybe a barrel with a brake or compensator built in. I'd love for my 8 year old grand daughter to hurt some feelings too.

Is it legal to send a baralled action in the mail, or am I going to have to find a smith around home?

Thanks again to you and anyone else that relpies,
Beez
 
As long as you have the action, you can send it in the mail. As far as barrels go, look at any of the top barrel makers, everyone has there preference.I have heard many top smiths recommend only cut rifled barrels, but personally, I think the smith that chambers it has a bigger impact than the barrel itself . Most manufactures will have a atleast a 12 week wait, but some places, like bugholes and Grizzly will have them in stock.
 
Before I junk my 9 1/8 twist Remington barrel and my old Tasco 10X40X50 w/1/8th inch target dot scope with adjustable turrets let me ask a few basic questions.

I hand load. Don't know a lot about it but feel like I do a better than average job. I have not hunted with a store bought rifle bullet for over 30 years and have not competed in Bulls Eye or Combat matches with factory ammo for 17 years.

My "goodest" rifle is a 700 VLS 243 Winchester. I've had it about 6 years and we've done well with the 2/day deer limit here in NW FL.

Anyway,with once fired, full length resized brass, trimmed and primer pockets cleaned up I cn consistantl group in the .3xx's and I've had quite a few .2XX's with my best 3 shot group of .211. The afore mentioned groupings were with Hornady 105 AMAX bullets. I can get also get Sierra 100 BTSP's and Speer 85 BTSP's to do almost as good. Two years back I shot a .527" group at 305 yards with the 105's. (pictures below)

Should I leave well enough alone except for the scope? For a once or twice a month shooter would the groups be worth the green?

tks,
Beezle
 

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If it ain't broke DON'T fix it.

If you are consistently shooting in the .3 that rifle ain't broke!! You could spend a butt load of money trying to drop from the .3s to the .2s or .1s and never get it done. True quarter moa or less rifles are something special, despite a smiths best efforts they don't all turn out quite that good. It's your money and you're free to spend it as you wish, but starting in the .3s doesn't leave you a whole lot of room for improvement.

Chris
 
If it ain't broke DON'T fix it.

If you are consistently shooting in the .3 that rifle ain't broke!! You could spend a butt load of money trying to drop from the .3s to the .2s or .1s and never get it done. True quarter moa or less rifles are something special, despite a smiths best efforts they don't all turn out quite that good. It's your money and you're free to spend it as you wish, but starting in the .3s doesn't leave you a whole lot of room for improvement.

Chris


WOW!!! Then we're a match. :)

I honestly thought we were doing pretty good, but I guess I got a little "p...s envy" from looking at all the hot rods and rails on here. Guess I best keep old Betsy clean and stock up on 105's and 7828 then.

Thanks for the honest advice guys,
Beez

And BTW, thanks for the vote of confidence too.
 
If it ain't broke DON'T fix it.

If you are consistently shooting in the .3 that rifle ain't broke!! You could spend a butt load of money trying to drop from the .3s to the .2s or .1s and never get it done. True quarter moa or less rifles are something special, despite a smiths best efforts they don't all turn out quite that good. It's your money and you're free to spend it as you wish, but starting in the .3s doesn't leave you a whole lot of room for improvement.

Chris


+i

Doesn't sound like you have a problem. Leave that rifle alone and build a longe range rifle
from scratch if you have the itch.

J E CUSTOM
 
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