Thanks for clarifying, Yes that's what I was looking for. I don't mind spending and buying a couple more single stage presses if that ultimately works better.
Not too concerned about the handgun loads, just the rifle.
Also getting ready to pick up a Savage 93R17 BSEV. Kind of on the smaller end of a rifle load.
The Forster is the squarest and the straitest press on the market, but also pretty expensive. They are fairly big and fairly heavy for what they are. On the otherhand they tend to stay tight thru out their lifetime. The "O" and "C" framed presses tend to wear much faster under hard use. I doubt you'll use an "O" frame enough with the range of loads your using to worry too much about it. Plus it's obvious that your shoot hunting rifles and not target rifles. So that little Lee will do most anything your after. But if you plan on doing a lot of reloading and also plan on using the press 30 years, then I'd look at something on the level of the Forster. Mine was bought in 1978, and it just as tight today as the day I unpacked it in 1978. I also use a small RCBS Partner for some odd jobs that are easier done than with the Forster (bullet pulling, sawing cases off , etc)
One thing that most folks fail to realize till they have their new press home is that their bench top may not be built heavy enough. The "O" and "C" framed presses require a pretty heavy bench top because of the way the power transfers thru the press. Not a big deal, but keep that in mind. The Forster power stroke is strait down, and you can get buy with a 1" thick piece of wood. I recommend getting a pair of 10 gauge steel plates that are about six inch square with the bolt pattern drilled in them. This will seriously strengthen up your mounting system. I use a home built riser with my Forster, and have built a 4", 6", and I'm currently using an 8" riser. Just kinda puts things up closer to eye level for my old eyeballs.
A complete change on the subject matter but still in the same trane of thought. I recommend buying a Wilson case trimmer. You can often find them cheap on Ebay, and they are simply the best. The Sinclair is a Wilson with a lot of stuff added to it (good ideas by the way). Their trimmer cuts case mouths squareer than any other I've seen or used. A few guys I shoot with use the Forster setup, and I have a couple of them. I found the Wilson to be much better. But still use the Forster for other odd jobs like cleaning primer pockets and even deburring certain cases.
And to even further this discussion, buy good measuring tools from the start!!!
You'll need a good pair of 1" micrometers that read down to one ten thousandth of an inch. Learn to get accurate readings in tenths while watch the TV. I use a pair of 4" Mitutoyo analog calipers 80% of the time for reloading. Been using these since April 1970, and they've never let me down. Avoid the Starrett analog calipers like the plague! and the Browne & Sharps are not anybetter. Reason why is that when you have to reset them you have to literally take them apart! The Mitutoyos simply use a brass shim and the whole job takes about 90 seconds.. I also own several pairs of digital ones, and all are pretty good ( B&S, Starretts, and Fowlers). I like the Starretts best because I can simply slide the battery contacter to one side so it dosn't drain the battery. Remember you cannot get high precision measurments with calipers reading an inside diameter!! Close but never perfect. Also buy the Hornaday lock & load case gauge outfit! This is a great little outfit, and can get you into very accurate seating depths.
gary
