Harrell powder measure, how does it work?

Jinx-)

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Well I thought its a good time to upgrade my old Lee powder measure to something better and I end up buying Harrell's premium powder measure, so many people seems to like it so I thought why not, so far I loaded 100 rounds and 3/4 of them were off by +-.4gr, then I had to change powders and the only way I could do it is by taking hole powder measure and flipping it upside down, also the bottle, it has no cover or cap for the top and since I do my reloading in my basement and I run dehumidifier none stop I'm concern to leave powder in uncapped bottle. So is that how it works? So far I been disappointed with this product, please give me some good reasons not to return it.
 
Yes, that is the only way to empty the powder. Use a funnel, goes faster. Weight variation depends on the powder you use; ball powders measure easily and very accurately. Stick powders just the opposite. Lynwood Harrel told me that Varget was the worst.

You have the best powder measure made. They do need occasional maintenance.
 
You can buy extra bottles and caps.
One very nice thing about the Harrell powder measure is the repeatability... record the setting for the powder and weight and it will be the same next time you use that combo
 
Yes, I used Varget and RL-17 and I tried not to bump, but it was cutting powder almost every time when I was moving it handle down, I did whipped outside of the measure with drier sheets so static wasn't the issue. I do like how easy it operates, the handle moves up very smoothly...
 
If I was using a measure that was problematic with Varget, I would switch to IMR8028 which meteres a lot easier. Supposedly similar temperature stability and close otherwise. Accuracy tends to be very good but some small drop in velocity.
 
Well I thought its a good time to upgrade my old Lee powder measure to something better and I end up buying Harrell's premium powder measure, so many people seems to like it so I thought why not, so far I loaded 100 rounds and 3/4 of them were off by +-.4gr, then I had to change powders and the only way I could do it is by taking hole powder measure and flipping it upside down, also the bottle, it has no cover or cap for the top and since I do my reloading in my basement and I run dehumidifier none stop I'm concern to leave powder in uncapped bottle. So is that how it works? So far I been disappointed with this product, please give me some good reasons not to return it.

The Harrell's powder is a good one and I have tried many different brands and found that I was
the biggest problem with the consistency.

I set up test of 10 charges of different powders and powder measures and tried different ways
of operating the measures and there was a significant difference in consistency.

The Ohas and Harrell's were the most consistant of the measures I tested. (I did not test every
brand available just the ones I had used and kept). but different methods made a difference
in each one.

So I looked for the best method for my measures and found that two taps on the fill cycle work
best and maintaining a rhythm while charging. While doing so ,if any charge doesent feel right
for any reason I just dump it back and recharge the case.you can also double tap the dump cycle
to assure that any and all powder is dispensed. (A few grains left in the measure can drastically
effect the weight consistency.

Starting out I weigh every charge until I get consistant weights (I think the powder has to pack
down in the measure a little before consistency is achieved) then I go to every 10th one and if
anything has changed, go backwards until they are correct again.

I realize it may sound silly but it works for me and keeps my charges at or below 1/10 grain
difference.

This is Just what works for me, and If I want perfect weights I single charge and trickle to the
exact weight wanted.

J E CUSTOM
 
I bought my Harrell after they been out about a year or so. I never planned on doing long grained stick powders with it from the start. With ball powders, I can throw charged +/- .1 grain all day long. IMR 3031 is about double the error, and 2015BR seems a tad tighter for some reason. Compaired with a Redding 30BR and my modded Lyman, it's a little better. I like the Lyman better than the 30BR.

The Harrell is a learning experience as it uses the Culver system rather than what we normally think of. Keep a log book with your click setting written down in it for a specific charge and powder. I find mine to repeat setting extremely close. As for the bottle issue and turning the measure upside down, That's the best way with any of them to get rid of all the left over powder inside. They do sell open top bottles (check with Sinclair), or you can simply buy them at a camping store outlet on the cheap. The Harrell like the Lyman seems to prefer a good drop tube, and I use several 4" and 6" ones (learn to flick the drop tube with your index finger to make sure all the powder has left the chamber).

So just how good is the Harrell? I've used the original Sinclair, a Niel Jones, and a couple other high end ones over the years. I see little if any difference in them when charges are weighed. My favorite was a Homer Culver modded Lyman (real one) that had the Sinclair bottle adapter and a baffle. With a 6" drop tube it was deadly accurate, but still wouldn't do 4350 and stuff like that all that great.
gary
 
I guess there are some tricks to make it work, how about spraying inside of it with static guard? Or it could be related to how much powder you put in the bottle? Switching to different powders, well all my powders are stick powders, like for my 6BR I use Varget and RL-15, then 260 uses RL-17, H4831SC and H4350, with 270 RL-19 and 22. Before buying Harrell I did research on RCBS Chargemaster and Hornady Lock-N-Load Auto Charge and both yield same issue down the road when push buttons would stop responding, same thing happen to my sonic cleaner when ON button was no longer working, so I thought Harrell would be nice thing to have.
 
I think I got it, two taps when handle points up, then 2 taps when handle points down... Somehow its been more consistent I tried it like 10 times and all of the powder charges were right on the mark, but for this test I used RL-15, it has smaller granules vs Varget, and for the top cap I used plastic bag with rubber band over it...
 
that's weird, I did try to screw cap from the bottom in-to IMR/Hodgdon bottles, but it wouldn't go, hmm let me try bottle then... Still would make any sense I thought that would be different thread...

PS... Just tried it and it does work!!! Thank you
 
I think I got it, two taps when handle points up, then 2 taps when handle points down... Somehow its been more consistent I tried it like 10 times and all of the powder charges were right on the mark, but for this test I used RL-15, it has smaller granules vs Varget, and for the top cap I used plastic bag with rubber band over it...


Thats great !!!!

In the Long Range hunting/shooting business it is amazing how little things make such a difference,
and are nessary for the precision nessary for our form of shooting.

Casual short range shooting is not as demanding and these differences would not matter to most
unless they are trying for Groups.

Also the Longer grain stick powders will work, just not as well in "Any powder measure" so Most of
the time I will measure short and trickle the rest (Slower but accurate).

The powder companies are aware of this and some have re-shaped their most troublesome powders
like H4831 to H 4831 Short cut.

J E CUSTOM
 
that's weird, I did try to screw cap from the bottom in-to IMR/Hodgdon bottles, but it wouldn't go, hmm let me try bottle then... Still would make any sense I thought that would be different thread...

PS... Just tried it and it does work!!! Thank you


Sinclair sells bottles with an open top & plug for the larger size bottle like you have. I thought you had one that takes smaller bottles. Are you using drop tubes? They are a must have with the Lyman and the Harrell (Sinclair sells them in different lengths and I.D.'s)
gary
 
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