Bullet Sorting

barnesuser28

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For long range hunting/shooting do you guys sort your bullets if so what do you sort them by? weight, distance from base to ogive, distance from base to tip etc.....

i am using Lapua brass so i figure i dont need to sort brass by volume

This is for a 338 Lapua if it matters at all

Thanks in advance
 
I sort my 300 gr. SMKs base to ogive; for some lots there is a very large difference even within 100 bullets. I shoot them in like lots shorter to longer, as I chase the lands.

JeffVN
 
I sort my 300 gr. SMKs base to ogive; for some lots there is a very large difference even within 100 bullets. I shoot them in like lots shorter to longer, as I chase the lands.

JeffVN
 
Recently I sorted 1000 nosler custom competition 140 for my 260. first I sorted by length with two comparators then sorted those by weight. By the way I later pointed them allbecause the hollow points were pretty wide for match bullets.
 
For long range hunting/shooting do you guys sort your bullets if so what do you sort them by? weight, distance from base to ogive, distance from base to tip etc.....

i am using Lapua brass so i figure i dont need to sort brass by volume

This is for a 338 Lapua if it matters at all

Thanks in advance

I have been " bullet sorting" for a few years. Some makers are very consistent, some are no so. That being said, when you do sort them, they are all good. Some variances are very small, but I have seen some very high. It works for me!
 
I'm one who doesn't think sorting bullets by virtually any measureable feature makes much difference, except for one. That's balance. Most bullets are unbalanced by some tiny amount. You've got to spin them at least 30,000 rpm in a collet spun by a motor which is connected to something that senses the centrifugal forces caused by unbalance. Those with perfect balance will shoot the most accurate.

I've shot enough sub 1/2 MOA 15 to 20 shot groups at 800 and 1000 yards with unsorted bullets to feel this way. However, if someone feels their tests prove otherwise, then they should continue sorting bullets by whatever feature they choose. But I suggest folks not start sorting bullets until all the ones right out of the box print no worse than 1 MOA at 800 yards or further; and that's with at least 15 shots per test group.
 
well i am shooting Barnes so i think i will just sort them by base to ogive just to give me a more uniform seating depth. Barnes is usually pretty consistant with weight so i dont think i will sort them by weight.
Thanks for all the advice
 
well i am shooting Barnes so i think i will just sort them by base to ogive just to give me a more uniform seating depth.
What does one measure relative to the bullet base for seating depth? Bullet base to case mouth, shoulder-neck junction (inside or outside), or some other part of the case?

Does your bullet ogive-to-base gage measure at the same point on the ogive that your bullet seater contacts?

I don't think a few thousandths spread in seating depth (bullet base to something) matters. Especially when there's a few thousandths spread in case headspace (shoulder datum to case head). There's enough spread in case volume itself to mask any difference in where the bullet base is. Seating a batch of bullets all having the exact same ogive-to-base dimension will put their bases at different points relative to the case shoulder, neck and mouth equal to the differences each case has at these places.
 
What does one measure relative to the bullet base for seating depth? Bullet base to case mouth, shoulder-neck junction (inside or outside), or some other part of the case?

Does your bullet ogive-to-base gage measure at the same point on the ogive that your bullet seater contacts?

I don't think a few thousandths spread in seating depth (bullet base to something) matters. Especially when there's a few thousandths spread in case headspace (shoulder datum to case head). There's enough spread in case volume itself to mask any difference in where the bullet base is. Seating a batch of bullets all having the exact same ogive-to-base dimension will put their bases at different points relative to the case shoulder, neck and mouth equal to the differences each case has at these places.

I agree. You may get rid of one variable while creating another.....Rich
 
Most anybody can shoot 2 MOA. Or, even produce an occasional 100yd bughole.

With a little diligence, a decent rifle, and good ammo, you should be able to consistently shoot MOA at longer ranges.

With a little more effort, sub-MOA.

But, due to the law of diminishing returns, it gets increasingly difficult from there on out to tighten up groups and to do so consistently and especially with long shot strings.

Folks often report sub-quarter-MOA performance who most likely aren't consistently doing so at long range in variable conditions.

But, even with a perfect rifle/load, it doesn't take much wind shift to open up groups beyond MOA at long range.

That said, a great shooter may well outperform a mediocre shooter at long range even with a lesser rifle/ammo.

So by all means, I recommend sorting/culling in order to eliminate extremes and to boost confidence. But, don't wear yourself out and forget to practice at long range and in the wind.

Load 20 after OCD prepping, sorting, and culling. And, shoot them at 500yds or more along side 20 without the excessive culling and determine for yourself if it's worth the extra effort.

-- richard
 
Most anybody can shoot 2 MOA. Or, even produce an occasional 100yd bughole.

With a little diligence, a decent rifle, and good ammo, you should be able to consistently shoot MOA at longer ranges.

With a little more effort, sub-MOA.

But, due to the law of diminishing returns, it gets increasingly difficult from there on out to tighten up groups and to do so consistently and especially with long shot strings.

Folks often report sub-quarter-MOA performance who most likely aren't consistently doing so at long range in variable conditions.

But, even with a perfect rifle/load, it doesn't take much wind shift to open up groups beyond MOA at long range.

That said, a great shooter may well outperform a mediocre shooter at long range even with a lesser rifle/ammo.

So by all means, I recommend sorting/culling in order to eliminate extremes and to boost confidence. But, don't wear yourself out and forget to practice at long range and in the wind.

Load 20 after OCD prepping, sorting, and culling. And, shoot them at 500yds or more along side 20 without the excessive culling and determine for yourself if it's worth the extra effort.

-- richard
thanks i will definantly try that out
 
With a little diligence, a decent rifle, and good ammo, you should be able to consistently shoot MOA at longer ranges. With a little more effort, sub-MOA.
To do that at 600 yards, you'll need to shoot under 1/2 MOA at 100 yards. And to do that at 1000 yards, your 100 yard groups cannot exceed about 1/4 MOA. All with velocity spread not to exceed 25 fps.

Groups don't open up directly proportional with range; never have, never will.
 
To do that at 600 yards, you'll need to shoot under 1/2 MOA at 100 yards. And to do that at 1000 yards, your 100 yard groups cannot exceed about 1/4 MOA. All with velocity spread not to exceed 25 fps.

Groups don't open up directly proportional with range; never have, never will.

BartB,

I'm actually glad to hear you as a competitive shooter say that. Because that's been my experience in contrast to a lot of internet fodder.

-- richard
 
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