saavage question

Tikkamike

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Big Horn Basin, Wyoming
OK I am getting a savage 10fcp HS. In 308 And I would like to get into switching barrells and trying new stuff out. My question is what do I need to know to do this safely? Obviously I will need go-nogo gauges and a nut wrench. Is there anything else? Also. Do I have a large shank or small shank?
 
Doesnt answer my question. I'd Like to get info from the people here I know I will get Good info here.

Though I would suggest it.

They have step by step instructions on how to swap a barrel for a savage. The guys on that forum are fanatics about their savages and know a lot. It's a great site for those who wish to tinker with a savage.

Good luck!

Jon
 
What is the difference in small shank and large shank? Other than size. Does it limit me to 308 based calibers ? What size breech would I order on a barrel? 1.25" ?
 
It will be a small shank. You'll also need an action wrench. Wheeler makes a cheap one that is decent.

That's about it.

Put the barreled action in the action wrench. Put the nut wrench on. Give the nut wrench a whack with a hammer. Spin the old barrel off. Start the new barrel. Put in the go-gauge. Spin the barrel all the way down. Tighten the nut. Check with the no-go or go with tape. Done.
 
Mike,

Shank size makes no difference on caliber choice, although I have heard/read that some barrel manufactureres will not do the RUMs or WSMs on a small shank barrels, others will.

Savage did make a limited number of factory RUMs and WSMs on the small shank before switching to the larger size. To the best of my knowledge the factory large shank barrels have a small step down in front of the barrel nut, not positive 100% are that way but the vast majority are.

Chris
 
Winmagman is correct except for 1 thing, only the sporter barrels have the step on large shank barrels. The Bull barrels on the precision actions do not.
 
After a couple times a blind monkey could swap barrels :D I have 4 barrels for my model 12 and change over in a couple minutes, one barrel is shouldered and the rest are nutted. Action is bedded only so changing over makes no issues with that.

Some set the head space with a case but I find it much easier to do it as geargrinder said, spin down on the go-gauge and tighten up then check with with a piece of tape then rock on. I don't tighten my barrel nut tight enough to need the action wrench, I just hold the barrel in one hand and give the wrench a wack and it spins of except for the shouldered one.

If your identifying a large shank by the step the varmint barrels also have a step.
 
I put a piece of scotch tape on the back of the gauge and trim it up, it adds .002 per piece of tape. I also have shims that I can use but for myself I just tape it. A no-go gauge is more head space than I want so it's kinda useless to me.
 
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