Removed Muzzle brake and ?

Iron Worker

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Apr 3, 2004
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Location
Reno Nevada
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When my rifle was completed I had the gun smith install his own muzzle brake. So cleaning rifle I went to remove ( muzzle brake) had to use a braker bar to unscrew it and white stuff starting falling out as I unscrewed it off ? Looks like it could of been plumbers tape ? I screwed it back on with out ? Do I need that stuff on there ? Could it have an effect on the rifles harmonics ?
 
I don't think it will cause any harmonic change . I would say it was used as a bond breaker , just something to keep the brake from seizing to the barrel . Jim
 
The threads should be a good enough fit that there isn't room for plumber's tape.

I like a little anti-seize on mine like jimbires points out.
 
It was most likely loc-tite, if you don't heat it and force it of you get a white, blue or red powdery type stuff. I've been using a little never seize on my installs and just hand tighten.
 
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When my rifle was completed I had the gun smith install his own muzzle brake. So cleaning rifle I went to remove ( muzzle brake) had to use a braker bar to unscrew it and white stuff starting falling out as I unscrewed it off ? Looks like it could of been plumbers tape ? I screwed it back on with out ? Do I need that stuff on there ? Could it have an effect on the rifles harmonics ?

As stated by others ,It is probably Lock tight.

I have seen this before and it is used for several reasons.

If the break didn't time perfectly, it is there to hold it in place(After cleaning it up, if it goes a little past the timing that's what it was used for. And you will probably have to use lock tight every time
you remove it.

Some breaks should be removed when cleaning the rifle and cleaned.(Like the Vias). Other brakes
like the Holland do not need to be removed when cleaning because they have the large ports and
can be cleaned easily.

The smith may have just forgot to tell you that you did not have to remove it if it was that kind
of break.

With Good fitting threads and a good shoulder breaks do not need Lock Tight and can be removed
many times before re-indexing is required.

If the break does not require indexing then the choice to use Lock Tight is yours.

J E CUSTOM
 
adjusting the "ports" to the proper position, not all brakes require it.

Actually, I beleive it applies to screws or threaded parts of any sort where you want them to bottom out at just the right "time" so that they are oriented in a particular direction.
 
Actually, I beleive it applies to screws or threaded parts of any sort where you want them to bottom out at just the right "time" so that they are oriented in a particular direction.

correct, thus "timing" or "adjusting" the ports to the proper position.
 
Timing refers to where the ports line up. With breaks like the muscle break, large ports point out to the side and the brake needs to be timed so they line up in the right place. On other brakes that have holes all the way around, they don't need to be timed and can go on however.
 
YES radial, ie blast goes everywhere,I have one.Lot of the newer are directional, usally both side and some with top porting also. Break intended to be horizontal to shooting plane, if that type was off 1/4, to vertical position then it would blow stuff all over you if prone in the dirt like speed goat hunting.
 
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