Rem sendero/ Edge conversion help

platapus

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The rifle is a Remington Sendero SF II .300 UM w/ the HS precision stock that I am turning into a .338 Edge. I am more than likely going with a 30" Broughton 5C barrel. What is the largest contour that I can use with this stock? Also, recommendations on a muzzle break. I have read until my eyes bled trying to gain as much info I could before posting, and appreciate the help.

The next question is on the Wyatt magazine box. I only plan on shooting the 300 grain bullets and am unsure weather to go with the CFE 9 ( OAL 4.00) or the CFE 12 (OAL 3.825). What can I get away with this stock and not have the gunsmith to upset fitting it.

I am sure that i will have more questions down the road as this project progresses. Thanks in advance.
 
I would suggest you pick a smith. Your paying him to work those details and give you advice you also end up with a set of specs you both work up.
 
I would suggest you pick a smith. Your paying him to work those details and give you advice you also end up with a set of specs you both work up.

Great idea. I would just stick with the profile you have its what alot of guys use on their EDGE. Its just a rebarrel and a mag box then no need to waste extra money changing profle.
 
Great idea. I would just stick with the profile you have its what alot of guys use on their EDGE. Its just a rebarrel and a mag box then no need to waste extra money changing profle.

This does not answer my questions. I have a smith. I am just trying to to do a little leg work and see what I can get with what I got. Thanks
 
This does not answer my questions. I have a smith. I am just trying to to do a little leg work and see what I can get with what I got. Thanks

Maybe this will help .

Measure your barrel at the shank(Dia and Length) then the Dia.at the muzzle.

Armed with these dimensions look at the barrel contour charts of the barrel maker you
want to use and try to match the dimensions of each. I normally increase the contour #
up one size. This size increase does not cause any problems opening up the barrel channel
slightly.

Most barrel makers have a "Sendero" contour and you can ask for the next size up or
stay with that contour.

Barrel makers have different numbers on the same size contours so i will not give you a lilja #
because it won't be the same as a shillen, hart or any other barrel .I have three different
brands of barrels that are the same size, One is a #8,one is a 5.5 and one is a #15.

Hope this helps.

J E CUSTOM
 
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I have seen a straight bull barrel in a factory sendero stock. At 30" that would make a very heafy rifle. My edge has a 30" barrel with a 1" muzzle diameter, staright taper, the rifle is over 20 pounds scoped. Sure it has a heavy A-5 stock, but that barrel is long and heavy. When I rebarrel my 300rum again it will get what Lilja calls a sendero28, it has the same muzzle diameter as the factory sendero, only it moves that dimension out to 28". Heavy enough to be steady and consistent, light enough to be portable.

Also go with the longer wyatt box, it is not big deal to have it installed. If you decide to try the berger 300gr you will need al the mag length you can get.
 
Not a problem. Yes, JE helped me. I'm still unsure as to how much of the stock can be removed and still be functional. I want to put the largest contour I can in the stock.

Thank you for the help.


On sporter stocks any material removed will weaken the stock because of its already narrow
forend and the weight of a heavy barrel will only increase the problem. I don't like to remove any more than I have to and for looks 1/16" on the top edge of the barrel channel is the least I
will leave on each side.

The Varmint stocks can Handel almost any barrel contour/Taper. I have placed #7 and #8 straight
tapers on the sendero stocks with good results and without removing to much material weakening
the fore end to much for a bipod.

The best looking barrel for the Sendero stocks IMO is the #8 contour Lilja or it's equivalent.
With contours you don't have to remove as much material from the stock because of it's shape.

Straight tapers (Not cylinders/bull barrels) are heaver and the straight taper requires more
material removal in the fore end.

I normally recommend the heavy contours for this reason over the heavy straight tapers.

J E CUSTOM
 
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