will a 338 brake work on 375

460or338

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Feb 5, 2010
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wanting to get a 375 but the brake i want is only listed as 338 with 5/8x18 threads would it still work or would there not be clearance for the bullets
 
wanting to get a 375 but the brake i want is only listed as 338 with 5/8x18 threads would it still work or would there not be clearance for the bullets
I can't immagin that a properly fitted break would have enough clearance. I use my 30 cal break on my 28 and 26 cal....but would NEVER attempt to go up!!!
 
its hard for me to find a brake i like . i dont like the baffle style and a simple cylindracul doesnt do it for me . i kinda like the browning boss . but ...

i guess i could have someone copy the surfire design and make a 375 version or ask sure fire if they could .most round brakes ive seen dont have a crown just round end and look cheap i like the end to be target crown or just very flat like the accu-brakes but instead of 2" i would want a 3" . ive seen the vais brake but i think it's ugly to .i will keep looking
 
Just bought a JP for my .338. It comes in .308 cal and they say to drill it to 0.040" over caliber. Right now it's 0.350 from the seller. I may try a round or two as-is after checking concentricity.
 
Kirby Allen (APS) recommends ...

7. Ream the bore of the brake to 20 to 30 thou over the diameter of the caliber you are using. For example, if your rifle is a 7mm Allen Magnum, the bore through the brake needs to be 0.304" to 0.314" for proper clearance to the bullet. Because of minor variations in the bore axis to the OD of the brake, it may be needed to take a very light boring cut on the first partition to true up the bore hole for reaming. Once this is done, using a quality reamer will cut a true and round bore through all the partition walls. Always ream the brake from front to the back.


APS Medium 3 port Painkiller muzzle brake installation instructions | Facebook
 
Never change brakes from one rifle to another. Unless they are the same caliber and even then it's not a good idea.
If you want a brake the most effective will be the baffle style, APS or similar. I have an OPS inc. On a 300 win mag and it works pretty well. I have a Vais on another rifle and I am not too impressed with it.
I would expect the brake on a 375 unless it is some kind of fire breather to not reduce the recoil as much in percentage points as a ultra mag or some other high capacity round.
 
i dont need a exfective muzzle brake for just a lil 375 h&h. I emailed surefire last nite about this . also my local store i only shops at is listed as a authentic brownign dealership even though the 26" model doesnt come with a boss i bet i could send it to them but their site doesnt have the muzzle brake listed just the cr version
 
I am thinking that this statement could use some explaning.
First for safety. It would be too easy to screw up. Wrong caliber or some other such problem. If you have a 30 cal brake the exit hole should be around .320 to .340, if you use that unit on a rifle that is a 7mm (.284) it would be at least .020 over what it should be. This would cause the brake to be less effective than it should be. If you put it on your 338 it would cause severe damage to you and your rifle.
Second if it is indexed it most likely would not line up correctly.
Too many things can go wrong. Possibly cause rifle damage or injury for the couple hundred bucks the brake costs is not worth it in my opinion. Most of the brake manufactures will bore the correct hole for you for a reasonable price.
 
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