new paint and diy cheek rest let me know what you think

[akallus]

my model 70 in 243 wssm

 

[zupatun]

Pretty sweet! I decided not to go with the external wheels. The hardware I got from Lowes in the drawer pull/hardware section. These are what I used and they are getting Cerakoted...

http://www.lowes.com/pd_148248-37672-881671_4294856651+5003698_4294937087?productId=3013888&Ns=p_product_price|1&pl=1&currentURL=/pl_$5%2B-%2B$10_4294856651 5003698_4294937087_?Ns=p_product_price|1

and the bolt:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_148300-37672-881667_0_?productId=3013901&Ntt=bronze+connecting+bolt+furniture&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=bronze connecting bolt furniture

Only drawback is I needed to shorten the bolts a little and I need at least one allen wrench to take it off if needed. Not a problem for me, there's one on my multi-tool that works fine. And once it's in place I don't need to take it off in the field.

Here's a crappy pic:

Matt

 

[bigbuck]

Very nice . Did you both form your own cheek weld ? Was it kydex material that you used and how hard was it to do ?

Thanks,

BigBuck

 

[zupatun]

My kydex was 3/16" 12" x 12" I bought for $15 off ebay.

There is a do it yourself thread online that is perfect. I just took my time and had one piece left-over. I made a template out of manila file folder first on the rifle, unfolded it and traced the outline onto the kydex and cut it out. I heated the spine of the part with a heat gun and folded it over my "mold" a piece of 2x12 board...

His looks thicker--probably the better option. Mine has a more flat top profile--which lets me define cheek weld exactly where I want on my cheekbone--I register with my the corner between my upper gum and the lower corner/edge of my cheekbone. Sight picture and if I lift my head I get my sight picture back exactly the same every time.

It's pretty easy if you go slow and are careful...still Karsten's are probably easier to buy and install in the long run. I just like doing a lot of stuff myself and I'm cheap.

Matt

 

[bigbuck]

My kydex was 3/16" 12" x 12" I bought for $15 off ebay.

There is a do it yourself thread online that is perfect. I just took my time and had one piece left-over. I made a template out of manila file folder first on the rifle, unfolded it and traced the outline onto the kydex and cut it out. I heated the spine of the part with a heat gun and folded it over my "mold" a piece of 2x12 board...

His looks thicker--probably the better option. Mine has a more flat top profile--which lets me define cheek weld exactly where I want on my cheekbone--I register with my the corner between my upper gum and the lower corner/edge of my cheekbone. Sight picture and if I lift my head I get my sight picture back exactly the same every time.

It's pretty easy if you go slow and are careful...still Karsten's are probably easier to buy and install in the long run. I just like doing a lot of stuff myself and I'm cheap.

Matt

Thanks for the info .. I'm cheap too money is hard to come by right now so I may just do it myself.

Bigbuck

 

[akallus]

thanks it was pretty easy to build only took a couple of hours from start to finish. i orded my kydex off of ebay it was like 12 dollars with shipping and was a 3/16 sheet 12x12 next i made a templet out of computer photo paper becouse its thicker than regular paper. i drew everything out the way i wanted it then cut it out and put it on my stock to see if i liked the fit. which i did. next i transfered the templet to the kydex sheet. then cut out the sheet using a 4 inch grinder with a cuttoff disk on it and for the sloted holes i drilled the top and bottom with each with a quarter inch drill bit then used a dremill to cut between them. i then made a form to mold the kydex on out of 1 1/2 wooden dowel rod nailed to a 2x6 covered in wax paper. next i preheated my house hold oven to 275 to 295 i placed the kydex on a sheet of wax paper then those on a flat cookie sheet. and let bake for about 15 min. (till fairly flexible. after the baking time i took it out and laid it over my form (make sure to use thick gloves or oven mits. the kydex is now about 300 degrees). and held it in place till it cooled off to where it would hold its shape. then after all is cooled i finished it off with a sander to shape the edges and smooth every thing.

 

[bigbuck]

Thanks for the photos and great job!Very encouraging to those of us that may try to form our own

BigBuck