manners T2 or Pdog special for hunting

rjackh

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Nov 30, 2009
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114
Location
Central Texas
i want to build a rifle for some long distance shooting and lots of hunting. i need it to be light enough to carry around to the blind or out in the field. i really like vertical grip stocks and i like butt hooks too, but i dont want a huge tactical stock thats not practical for hunting. i like the manners T2 and stockades pdog special stock, do yall think these will be ok for my situation? if not, any other suggestion?

the action will be a savage 10fp in 308, barrel probably cut to 20". anybody know roughly how much that barreled action weighs?

thanks
 
I like my Pdog. Especially, since I got it as a money saver and did all the painting myself. Saved me a bunch of money. I've never handled a Manners, so I can't really compare the two.

The pdog is a fairly large stock and with the palm swells and wide forend, it feels even bigger.

What about one of the thumbholes from stockade? They might be petter suited for what you are looking for.
 
i want to build a rifle for some long distance shooting and lots of hunting. i need it to be light enough to carry around to the blind or out in the field. i really like vertical grip stocks and i like butt hooks too, but i dont want a huge tactical stock thats not practical for hunting. i like the manners T2 and stockades pdog special stock, do yall think these will be ok for my situation? if not, any other suggestion?

the action will be a savage 10fp in 308, barrel probably cut to 20". anybody know roughly how much that barreled action weighs?

thanks

I have the P-Dog Special and love it. Without the action & barrel it is very light even with all the options I had put on it. It is a large stock, but for a prone rifle it is great. Mine is a 6mm BR. Norma and has a very heavy 26" slightly tapered S/S Brux barrel with a 1 in 8" twist. The first 5 shot group with Berger 105 gr. Match VLDs measured .084" at 100 yds.

I also finished the stock myself to save $$$$. It was very easy and fun to do. I think it took less than 3 hours to complete. With scope attached it weighs 14+3/4 pounds. Not light, but boy does it shoot.

Here is what it looks like: http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=366263&highlight=

Popguns stock is finished. - Georgia Outdoor News Forum

joseph

PS: I did not show how I got the netting on the stock. HeHeHe!!!
 
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well now im looking at a savage 10fp in mcm a5 direct from savage, i can get it cheaper than i can the same metal in a T2. savage website says its 10lbs and i cant decide if thats too heavy to be practical for hunting or not... i was gonna have the barrel cut down to 20" which might save a pound or two but then add that weight back in optics and bipod. im thinking it will end up around 11 lbs maybe? any input?
 
well now im looking at a savage 10fp in mcm a5 direct from savage, i can get it cheaper than i can the same metal in a T2. savage website says its 10lbs and i cant decide if thats too heavy to be practical for hunting or not... i was gonna have the barrel cut down to 20" which might save a pound or two but then add that weight back in optics and bipod. im thinking it will end up around 11 lbs maybe? any input?


Your about right with that assumption. Why do you want to cut the barrel down? just curious. I have an 18" in a 1" contour that shoots very well. I was given the barrel for free, so that is why it is that short. Just make sure your smith does a good clean cut and crowns it well not leaving any burrs.

I just recently tried RL17 with a 175grn Nosler Custom Comp. With an 18" barrel and 48grns of powder I was able to get it up to almost 2600fps. I think I am going to try some 168 SMK's and see what I get. I bet I will be able to get up to about 2650 with an 18". Should be interesting. With the load compressed I should get some close ES's also.

Anyway, my rifle weighs in right around 10#'s and it is not that bad to carry. That says a lot for a guy who is overweight. Having the McMillian is just a bonus in my book. You won't have to look at buying an aftermarket stock again unless building another rifle. Wish I went that route when I initially purchased my Savage at least for the stock. Love my Savages though.

Tank
 
ya see im young and able (19) so i feel like i could get used to carrying 11lbs of gun around when i wanted to. i just dont want to get sick of it and have it designated to targets and ground blinds for the rest of its life...

i want to cut the barrel only to save weight. i have read some reports suggesting 20" barrels might just be the perfect length in some situations but thats not that big a deal to me. i like the idea of the rifle being fairly compact and light in tactical terms. if i can cut the barrel to save a couple pounds, optics and bipod you bring me back up to 10 or 11 lbs it seems. if i didn't cut the barrel i might be pushing 14 lbs of gun. i know thats only a 2 lb difference between the two but i know a guy with a 16 lb gun that he says theres no way he would lug it around hunting. thats also only another 2 lbs but where do you draw the line ya know?

and i trust my smith. its larry from excorio precision arms. hes got experience with this and i think it will turn out just fine.
 
Sounds like you got your self a plan. You may want to talk with him about what you want. He could give some very good advice as to build that perfect stalker. Maybe in this application the McMillian may not be a good option. The only reason I am saying this is that it is specifically designed to be put on a bipod and drug through the woods. They are quite long and very heavy. Half the rifles weight is in the stock itself. You could look at maybe getting a wood stock in the same profile and save your self about 3lbs. I would venture a guess that with pillar and glass bedding you will not gain any weight and be just as accurate. You could save a little money for better glass and accessories.

Let me guide you my young Padowan learner!:D

Sharp Shooter Supply - The Savage Specialists good equipment and stocks.
Tactical Style, I really like these and probably get one some day. Having children puts the clamps on this kind of stuff.

The more I think about it, I really like having the short barrel. It makes it nice for crawling under thick brush. It was a life save a couple years ago. Hunted in some really nasty thick stuff. A long barrel would have sucked emensly.

Hope this helps. Understand I am not trying to talk you out of a McMillian. You would be getting one heck of a stock with a really nice action and factory tube. Like I said, talk to your smith and see what he thinks.

Tank
 
i like the sharp shooter supply stocks but that LVT is 4 lbs, thats heavier than a manners T2 and idk if its as good a quality. lot cheaper thats for sure but weight is my main issue.

im having a lot of ppl tell me not to cut the barrel down to save weight. why not? i have seen a lot of tactical sniper rifles with barrels cut down to even 18"...
 
For long range intent, long barrels mean velocity and energy. That is from a known perspective that long barrels produce good results down range. Now with a .308 it is in my opinion, you are still going to get your results that you want from an 18 or 20" barrel. I have been able to hit steel with mine at 600yrds. With the amount of splatter that was on the steel I know it would do some damage. The load that I used wasn't even that accurate, and I know now I can pick the speed up to the normal speeds that snipers can achieve with their ammo. I am expecting this new experiment to prove quite plausible to produce long barrel velocities using RL17 and a 168 bullet. I am going to try both magnum primers and large rifle primers to see what I get.

I'm on board with you. I was just curious as to why you would like to cut your barrel. The length of the barrel should be determined by how far you want to shoot. I know that 600 is about as far as I am going to go on game with my rifle should this new load work out. Right now I have a load using 135 SMK's that print well and carry enough velocity to kill Whitetail to around 450yrds. So length determines application or vice versa. Does that make sense? I don't think you could go wrong with a short barrel.

I read an article by Rifle shooter or Shooting Times magazine that the author wanted to see the results of a long barrel verses a short one. He preferred the short barrel and said with equal factory loads using same twist bores but one was longer and the other shorter; the shorter printed better. He attributed that to being a stiffer barrel. This can be really subjective because of metallurgy and brand of barrel do to maker. It is a matter of preference.

As far as weight, I am guessing that you will save a pound or two by using the wood stock even though it weighs 4lbs. If you done get the adjustable comb you will still save some weight without hardware.

Tank
 
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