Broadheads- Mech. VS Fixed

j870sm

Active Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Messages
31
Location
Texas
I have mixed feelings about mechanical broadheads even though I have used them and have been successful doing so. I like the way they shoot, I shoot the 3-blad rage and they fly with my field points. I prefer or am more confident in the fixed blades, I am shooting slick trick heads now because they fly so well and make a wicked exit hole.

I have never had a mechanical open up on me nor have I had one fail to open when entering a critter. It seems there are so many people that speaks badly of the mechies that I am beginning to feel as though I should expect a failure.

What is your opinion on the mechanical vs fixed broadheads?
 
I have shot mechanical for 15yrs. Some mechanicals have the potential to fail. I use broadheads that cannot penetrate w/o opening. Such as the spitfire. The other down side to the mechanical is that it can be re-directed on a quartering shot. If the opening blade hits in just the right spot, it causes the arrow to kick out.

Don't take hard quartering shots with expandable broadheads. Make sure that your choice of broadhead has no possible way to fail. No plunger types.

Steve
 
I have shot both, started with Thunderheads (fixed) had good luck with them. Switched over to mechanicals when the craze started. First tried the Rocket Arrow Heads. I had absolutely terrible luck with these, even on high percentage shots. Next went to a custom made mech that I found on the net. Nice head but performance was not what I wanted. Swithed back to fixed, those 2 blade Steel force. Good heads had good luck with them. Then I read an article in a bowhunting mag about the super sized mechanicals and how efective they are. Well called Cabels and ordered me some Vortex 100 grain heads with a 2 and 1/2 inch cutting diameter!! These are without a doubt 100% the absolute best heads I have ever used. Must have shot at least a dozen whiteys and litteraly watched every single one of them die. Farthest deer traveled only 60 yards. These are BIG heads with a huge cutting diameter. Give them a try, I am sure glad I did.

VortexBroadheads.com
 
I shot Rage broadheads last year, and wasn't happy with them. They kept opening up when I would pull the arrow out of the quiver. Pour performance on deer as well.I have not had much luck with finding a broadhead/carbon arrow combo that I like. I am going back to my tried and true aluminums with 2 blade Zwickey broadheads. I can shoot these arrows all day long for practice, then sharpen them by hand with a file, put them in my quiver and go hunting. I don'd know why I ever changed.
 
Carbon arrows are straight on the outside but not on the inside. The hole is not down the center of the shaft. If you spend a few hundred dollars per dozen I think this may not be as big a problem. Non the less, aluminum is a much more forgiving shaft.

Archery is much like rifles. If you run a heavy aluminum arrow with a heavy broadhead, you will have a better chance at repeatable accuracy. every body wants to hunt at over 300fps. Quit worrying about the speed. Get the yardage right. This is my philosophy.

Heaviest aluminum shaft that has the proper spline, per the chart, for your draw, cam style, and draw weight. Run over 10% front of center for the broadhead. This should put you into the 125g class broadhead. Find a one piece two or three blade broad head, I like the two blade, easier to tune. The longer the broadhead the better. 1" diameter by 2" or more blade length will usually plane less.

Just don't sacrifice accuracy for the speed.

JMHO, Steve
 
O K, I know I am about to step into a BIG pile of "stuf" but, my feelings on this matter are that "mechanical broadheads are for people who do not know how to tune a bow". Why would you want to put three opportunities for failure on the front of every arrow you shoot?
My practice arrows consist of nine arrows, three each of Rocky Mountain Premier, Thunderhead, and Steelforce all 100gr. I shoot them mixed together out to 70yds, if the group stars to open up I know I have to tweak the rest a little.
I use the stiffest arrow I can find, right now 3-71 ACC, with a 70lb Bowtech, paper tune to 1/4" knock high tear, then go to 40yds, shoot one broadhead, then one field point, shoot four of each. Usually there will be two groups with the broadheads about 2 to three inches below the field points. Now start raising the rest in very small increments, 1/32 to 1/16" until the groups come together.
Now all of this assumes you practice enough and your form is good enough to shoot that MEGA SPEED BOW you just bought.:D
Dave
 
I used thr Rage two blade last year to try something different. Never got a chance to shoot anything, ( Too Picky). I have never had any problem with fixed heads hitting the same as my fp's. after I went to a drop away rest. With the old TM two prong rest was a different story. And yes my Bow is tuned and I practice out to 50+ yds. often.
 
In my original post, for some unknown reason, I stated that I used Rage. I use Grim Reaper, why I typed rage I don't know.

With the Grim Reaper I have had good luck, no failures to open and none opening at launch or during flight that I could tell. The Frim Reaper has a spring in the blade cup. These seem to be really good mechanicals and razor sharp.

I have been shooting Slick Trick fixed blades as well and I think I am going to go to these exclusively. These are hands down the best flying broadhead I have shot out of my current bow. I shoot the 100gr 4 blade and I have had pass thru's on all the hogs I have shot with these.
 
My son and I just got back from a bison hunt in nebraska with our bows. we shoot rage 2 blade. I shot clear threw my bull and he was deadin 50 yards and my son sons broadhead just came threw the skin on the far side,dead in 100 yards. He is shooting a z7 extreme and Im shooting a xlr8. great broadhead
 
In my original post, for some unknown reason, I stated that I used Rage. I use Grim Reaper, why I typed rage I don't know.

With the Grim Reaper I have had good luck, no failures to open and none opening at launch or during flight that I could tell. The Frim Reaper has a spring in the blade cup. These seem to be really good mechanicals and razor sharp.

I have been shooting Slick Trick fixed blades as well and I think I am going to go to these exclusively. These are hands down the best flying broadhead I have shot out of my current bow. I shoot the 100gr 4 blade and I have had pass thru's on all the hogs I have shot with these.

+1 on Slick Trick! Check out my friends successful safari hunts ...

Kirk Clark | Slick Trick
 
I have shot a variety of broadheads over the last 30 yrs. And I am currently shooting steel force, phat head .80 thick 2 blade with bleeder, I think this is thickest blade out, shoot like darts, I put one threw a bears shoulder blade at 20 yrds w/ 76 lbs. Got 12'' penatration,cut on contact point.
 
Yup ONLY fixed blade for me, its not worth risking to me. I have personally seen without any large bones hit 5 mechanical failures 2 being with "rage". All of these deer were recovered but only after being shot a second or third time(Tracking dogs are awesome!). I shoot fixed blade and all steel, Snuffer SS 100s and I am now trying Slicktrick mag 100s. In all fairness I have also seen 2 muzzy broadheads blow up, one on a bear offside shoulder and one on a deer spine. I do know it is difficult for any broadhead to take that kind of abuse but have not had a problem with snuffers even when bone was encountered. Put the time in to tune them well any you wont be sorry! Just my experiences and opinion.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 13 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top