Light recoiling 600 yard elk rifle w/ muzzel brake

dandeployed

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Flagstaff, AZ
Heres my story:

I don't have much centerfire rifle experience, other than shooting M16's in the Air Force, which I really enjoyed. Now that I live in N. AZ. there are plenty of places for long range shooting and hopefully hunting, if I ever draw a tag. I've shot a 300wm (w/o hearing protection, stupid I know) a couple of times and realized that I quickly began to flinch from the recoil.

I'd like to use a Savage action to build a 600 yard elk rifle. The gun will also be used to hunt deer and antelope. I recognize that I need to practice ALOT to shoot 600yds, so it makes sense to put on a muzzel brake, probably one of Nate's.

I just found this site a few weeks ago, but I've been thinking about doing this for about a year. I've searched all over the internet and read most of the hunting and shooting books in my local library. I've found that I really enjoy looking at ballistics tables and reloading data and pondering what would be the best cartridge for my scenario.

I came across a good deal on a basic reloading set which I bought, so I wouldn't be limited to factory ammo. I think I will enjoy working up a load for my new gun.

I was thinking probably something in the 7mm caliber would be ideal, while trying to avoid something belted.

I look forward to hearing suggestions from more experienced shooters.

Thanks for the help,

Dan
 
Let's see; Savage action, non-belted case, muzzle break installed and 7mm with sufficient killing power to 600yds for elk. Not sure you would want the 7mm SAUM or WSM as the heavier/longer bullets invade on their powder space. Unless barrel is throated for these type bullets.
I would probably go with the 7mm RUM or check into the Allen Mag. I know the RUM can be had on the Savage action but not sure about the AM. I suppose Kirby can work his magic with just about any action. He has more experience than I behind the trigger with the BIG 7's, long range and killing big beast....JohnnyK.
 
Well, I'd suggest getting something on the order of a model 12fvss and get the 300WSM barrel (it will handle heavy enough bullets for 600yd elk). Since you don't have much center fire experience and you'll have the Savage action, I'd then order a 223WSSM barrel (with the large shank). the 223WSSM has the same bolt face as the 300WSM, so switches are easy. Get a Barrel Nut wrench and the go gauges for the 223WSSM and 300WSM. Switch to the 223WSSM barrel and shoot it a ton. The 223 will have almost no recoil and will be very cheap to shoot, its a great coyote rifle (and I know you have those in AZ). You will get all kinds of fun cheap practice shooting and reloading.

The model 12 is the varmint rifle and it has the lighter Accutrigger (which is surprisingly good), so you won't need to invest in a better trigger.

While you are getting comfortable with the rifle and reloading, you can get a little heavier stock (one of the laminates would be perfect). Then you can put the 300WSM barrel on it and get serious about long range. With experience, the heavy barrel of the model 12 and a laminate stock, you wont need a muzzle brake at all. However, if you do need a brake, you can mark your barrel, ship it off and have one installed; meanwhile you can be shooting the 223.

Hope this helps,
AJ
 
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AJ posted some great advice - the Savage action is a great one for the home hobby gunsmith as it's relatively easy to swap barrels. Savage also makes a couple of excellent factory rifles with laminated stocks & heavy barrels - in suitable cartridges.

A 600 yard shot, in good conditions, is surprisingly easy to make with a decent rifle and a good scope. Heck, highpower competitors do it all the time with iron-sight AR-15's...

Muzzle breaks are very loud. Plan on wearing ear protection every time you shoot a rifle so equipped.

I do a lot of longish-range shooting but have only taken one nice big bull elk - and he was only 180 yards out or so. A 175 Nosler partition from a 7mm Rem mag worked just fine, penetrating completely and making a clean, quick kill. The more I've hunted, the more I've come to realize that there is no one perfect cartridge/bullet combo for this sport - there's about a zillion different choices, many of which will work just fine.

An accurate rifle. A cartridge that tosses an appropriate bullet with enough zip to get the job done. A bullet that is accurate, sheds velocity grudgingly, penetrates to the vitals and makes a mess of the heart/lungs... A scope that lets you see your target clearly, and lets you compensate for range...

There are as many possible combos as there are hunters. I think your 7mm WSM idea has merit. So does the good old 7mm Rem mag, the 7mm STW or the RUM version. Or the .30's... Heck it could be done with a long-barreled .30-06 shooting Berger 190 or 210 VLD's... And done well.

Seeking the "perfect" LR hunting rifle I've gone through several candidates. One thing I keep coming back to is that it's got to be a rifle that is both portable (those mountains are steep and rugged) and also fun to shoot. I like to practice a lot and a rifle that just beats the snot out of me is not something I enjoy anymore.

Regards, Guy
 
I like the 7mm bullets better as well. If Savage offered the laminate long heavy barrel in the 7wsm, it would be perfect. A lot of the non varmint rifles that savage offers have shorter lighter barrels that would not help the recoil issue nor the long range capabilities (less velocity on shorter barrels). The Varmint rifles also have the lighter Accutrigger.

AJ
 
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Thanks for the info so far.

I think I'm leaning towards the 7mm WSM. Especially after reading the High Country Hunter article.

AJ,

I'm probably going to put a heavy 26" shilen on it so the light weight barrel is not a big deal. I was thinking the same way when it comes to putting on a varmint barrel, but I've heard of lots of feeding issues with the WSSM's. I'm trying to find another cartidge that will be an easy switch and not cause any feeding issues.

Thanks,
Dan
 
If you are going to use a savage action, you can a great deal on a Shilen pre-fit barrel at accuracyarms.com.


I am going to get one from him in 7WSM and have it throated for the 168Berger VLD's. I am using a control round feed safari model that was a 300 win so I will be able to load them long and still mag feed.You can get alot of good info on Savages at savageshooters.co m

Even if you get a standard WSM action, although you will have to seat the bullet pretty deep into the case, there is still plenty of room for a powder charge that will give you good performance.

You can get alot of good info on Savages at savageshooters.com
 
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The savage is a good way to go, pre fit barrels are reasonable. 7 WSM would be great caliber (go with heavy varmint contour and forget muzzlebrake)

I would suggest that you stay with a smaller standard caliber (ie not WSSM) for the second barrel. 6mmBR, 243, would be two very good choices with the 6BR being my choice as good ballistics, no recoil, reasonably flat trajectory, great barrel life, quality components and easy to reload for. What more could you ask for?

Another bolt is only $100, wrench $30, barrel vise $40, go/no-go guages $40 and you are good to go.

BH
 
To me it sounds like he's wanting something to get started with.
Budget wasn't mentiones either.
So I would reccomend something like a Rem. CDL SF in 300 WSM for a higher end gun (about $1K) or a Rem. SPS Varmint in 300 WSM (about $500) and have a brake put on either. Plenty of umph for elk past 600.

Get some good mounts and glass and all the other required goodies.

Then go try to burn the barrel out with 180 accubonds.

You'll be ready when the draw graces you with a tag.

I remember once hearing "Beware the man that owns only one gun, he usually knows how to use it."
 
600 yard elk rilfe

To me it sounds like he's wanting something to get started with.
Budget wasn't mentiones either.
So I would reccomend something like a Rem. CDL SF in 300 WSM for a higher end gun (about $1K) or a Rem. SPS Varmint in 300 WSM (about $500) and have a brake put on either. Plenty of umph for elk past 600.

Get some good mounts and glass and all the other required goodies.

Then go try to burn the barrel out with 180 accubonds.

You'll be ready when the draw graces you with a tag.

I remember once hearing "Beware the man that owns only one gun, he usually knows how to use it."
THE REMINGTON SPS varmint would great but it does not come in 300wsm as far as i know. i realy like your quote though " beware of the man with one gun" . roninflag
 
600 yard elk rifle

the savage factory rifles with hvy barrels that come in 300wsm are nearly the price of the sendero. it takes takes practice (and experience and good equipment ) to shoot " long range " so reloading is a plus. equipment- a capable rifle with a a good trigger; good scope; good bedding and good ammo and a range finder. next it takes a while ( the draw odds for a general bull tag are usually less than 17%) to get drawn in az. i shoot a lot more targets than game. i would get a gun that i would be good for both. i would definetly get a brake installed, too. roninflag
 
great info , thanks

I am on a tight budget, but I've found a good deal on new Savage model 11F in .270wsm, 7mmwsm, or 300wsm for $345. Its pre accutrigger, but I can get a SSS trigger for $90. If the factory barrel shoots good I'll keep it, if not, I'll get $239 Shilen SS Match from Accuracy Arms. Once I decide on the barrel, I'll have brake put on it.

roninflag,
Since I'm new to hunting I've been putting in for cow tags. 2 years now and still haven't gotten drawn, but I think my chances are pretty good next year.
Dan
 
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