How to create a accurate load

Laker_Taker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2005
Messages
56
Hello,
I have been playing with my .270 weatherby magnum and can't get 140 accubonds to shoot. Can someone tell me how to create a perfect load from start to fininsh.

1.New .270 weatherby brass
2. IMR 7828ssc starting load 67 grains per nosler book (I have many powders I just picked one)
3. Fed 215 primers
4. I do have a chrono

Can someone get me started in the right direction? I guess from case prep to the load itself to shooting and what to look for.

Sorry for the rookie questions but I reload for 8 guns and never had this much trouble.

Thanks Aaron
 
What twist rate is your barrel? how are you measuring seating depth? How are you setting your headspace with your dies? etc.
 
What twist rate is your barrel? how are you measuring seating depth? How are you setting your headspace with your dies? etc.

The barrel is 1 in 10 twist. My seating depth is how far I can seat them in the magazine. I don't know the correct way of doing this. Because of the freebore. I dies are set up per RCBS instructions.

hope this helps
Aaron
 
Does the rifle shoot any other bullet well. The rifle might just not like the accubonds.

I can shoot 130 grain accubonds at 100 inch and a half. I am having trouble shooting 150 grain bullets as well. I only have about 40 rounds down the pipe.
 
When I shot a mark V 257 weatherby it would group like that until it was loaded with a hot load then it started to tighten up. I would clean the heck out of the bore and start working up a load from low to high range of powder. If you have other powders ( I can not find my Nosler book at this moment) I would try to see if it liked any thing else with the same type of from low to high charges. oldfamily.
 
LT,

I have a .270 wby and fought this battle for quite a while. Tried many different powders with no good results. I finally tried some 150 gr. partitions and it settled right down. I had to conclude that my rifle did not like 140 gr. bullets.

Festus
 
L T

After wasting thousands of test loads on different rifles/pistols
I decided to use the method recomended by ED SHILLEN and
it saves lots of time and components.

#1 After prepping your brass weight sort (I try to stay within
1gr).
#2 Select several powders that reach max pressure at 100% case
density.
#3 Load a starting load with several different primers that the loading
data recommends (rem,win,cci,fed )in the size range (Large rifle,mag)
#4 pick the bullet weight you would like to use and load 3 to 5 of each
load.
#5 Chronograph all loads( What you are looking for is low standard
deviations ) under 15 but single digit numbers are very good. this tells
you that you have a very consistent powder/primer combo.
#6 With the best load found start with .030 bullet to land clearance
and reduce to .005 just off the lands in .005 increments for best group
size.

At 100yrds a poor load and a good bullet may shoot good groups but
when you shoot longer ranges that same load will probably shoot poorly.

And allways start with a good stock to barreled action fit that could
prevent even the best load from shooting.

Works for me
J E CUSTOM
 
L T

After wasting thousands of test loads on different rifles/pistols
I decided to use the method recomended by ED SHILLEN and
it saves lots of time and components.

#1 After prepping your brass weight sort (I try to stay within
1gr).
#2 Select several powders that reach max pressure at 100% case
density.
#3 Load a starting load with several different primers that the loading
data recommends (rem,win,cci,fed )in the size range (Large rifle,mag)
#4 pick the bullet weight you would like to use and load 3 to 5 of each
load.
#5 Chronograph all loads( What you are looking for is low standard
deviations ) under 15 but single digit numbers are very good. this tells
you that you have a very consistent powder/primer combo.
#6 With the best load found start with .030 bullet to land clearance
and reduce to .005 just off the lands in .005 increments for best group
size.

At 100yrds a poor load and a good bullet may shoot good groups but
when you shoot longer ranges that same load will probably shoot poorly.

And allways start with a good stock to barreled action fit that could
prevent even the best load from shooting.

Works for me
J E CUSTOM

J E,
Thanks for the info.
One question how do you know how far your bullet is seated off the lands? Is there a tool out there that can assist with this process? Currently I have the bullet as far out as the magazine will let me. Because the gun I'm having trouble with is a .270 Weatherby mag. how much will the free bore be an issue?

Thanks Aaron
 
Several gauges available, I use the stoney point (now Hornady) comparator with head & shoulders gauges, Sinclair makes a good one too. Freebore does make a difference every bullet likes a different jump to the lands some like to be seated in the lands some like as much as .02" of jump (in my experience). And of course the individual rifle has it's own pallate. You can do it without the gauges of course. Just seat long and keep screwing down the seater plug untill the action closes easily, then go from there in increments, though it's much more precise with the gauges.
 
LT

Weatherbys have lots of freebore and normally cant be reached
even if loaded very long.

Neck size only and a near zero headspace will be achieved then
freebore is not a problem.

Some bullets seem to like lots of jump (.050 to .060) like the Barnes
XBT.

I like the accubond and have had good luck loading it and also the
partition.

If you have a light weight barrel you may have to use tip pressure
to settle it down.

Look back on bullets,barrels and blistics to a post called Weatherby
mark 5 pressure,by 300 Winnie, dated 08/19/07 and there is a method
on how to apply tip pressure described that may help.

Good Luck
J E CUSTOM
 
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